Damnation ! Did you have the original cast iron valve guides replaced ? . If not , that's almost assuredly your problem . Cast iron guides worn like , well like cast iron but with to - day's fuels they often stick just like this when the engine reaches full operating temperature . This is why I always insist on replacing all the guides with silicon bronze ones , even if they're O.K. . Did you replace the old two piece valves with stainless steel ones ? . Bummer Bill but hang in there , you'll get it .
Yes Nate, the cast iron guides were replaced with new cast iron guides on the 1st attempt. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The shop (G & G machine, Tomball Tx.) did me right. They ordered a replacement valve from Egge. They machined out the cast iron valve guides enough to install bronze liners in all 12 guides. The work was finished within 30 minutes of the valve arriving from Egge on the west coast. No charge. I borrowed an engine hoist from a friend (that head is HEAVY when it has the manifolds installed) and Ken and I installed it today. My wife ran the hoist during the critical time with Ken trying to keep the head level and me stabbing the head on the alignment pins. Bolted it back together and it cranked right up as soon as the carb got gas. Waited for it to warm up (temp sending unit broke when I tightened the wire, so we used a hand held IR thermometer to make sure temp was OK) and then reset the valves. Idles at 420 RPM, drops to 400 with the A/C on. Took a short run down the road and all seems well, but I don't want to take it far without the temp gauge working. Now for a question: When I shut off the engine it "burps" 2-3 tablespoons of oil out of the "Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Oil Line - group # 8.4550" overflow line. Do all these engines do this?
Bill, Is that the same line I was asking about recently? Mine flows all the time when running. Seems logical to me for it to burp a little, (backflow from inside the rocker shaft?)
Valve Guides O.K. glad it's good to go now . This Machine Shop would be off my radar as using cast iron guides is false economy and very bad practice as you and your wallet discovered . I remember when I was young , draping over the fender & wrestling those l o n g cylinder heads into place . I quickly learned to go get two over length head bolts & cut the hex heads off them , file the top end rounded & screw into the block and use as guide pins , easy to unscrew by hand after he head is in place and never a dinged head gasket . Too bad about the sender ~ do you have another ? I might have an Echlin or Standard Ignition catalog with the P/N if you need , it's not here but I can look it up in a day or three if you need .
The GMC Maintenance Manual had this exact tip, plus cutting a hacksaw slot in the top for easier removal with a common screwdriver. I made a set and used them.
The Screwdriver Slot Yes , if you're working in a big shop with a band saw it's easy to do , I just unscrew the stud by hand , always easy because I take the time to run a tap down the block's holes.... I usually manage to loose my cylinder head and tranny guide pins between the infrequent need so I'm lazier each time I make another set . BTW : they're REALLY helpful when doing clutch jobs , no one even thinks about the damage to the new clutch disc when you install a tranny without guide pins .
