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Weekend trip to Payson
- Thread starter ccharr
- Start date
ccharr
Member
Well got to thinking about what Robert asked and while I do not have the $ to spend on the duals, I had matching carbs built for it (do not remember why I did not buy the dual manifold), I still have the 2 barrel from Tom Langdon which he no longer sells, it has been on the truck twice and both times I took it off. So yesterday I started getting the parts to the 2 barrel gathered up and that took most of the day also started getting the 2 barrel ready for the 235 manifold. I changed the way I put it on the adopter but I no longer have the photos which show how that 2 barrel should be installed on the engine.
Do any of you have that Langdon 2 barrel (was made for the pinto if I remember correctly) set-up and if so could you please post a few photos showing how it was installed?
ccharr
Member
, I just would like to climb the hills a little better and not have it floored a lot of the time. Charles
Zig
Member
Sounds like you need to move to Kansas, Charles. No hills here to speak of. 
ccharr
Member
Nate,
Not sure what the series is for that pinto carb. Fired it up and things did not go well. Have some time tomorrow cleaning up s mess that is what I get for not stopping once I got tired. That Carb may end up under a damn sledge hammer before dark thirty tomorrow if it does not get better tomorrow after the power wash cleanup.
This truck has always had carb problems, today while looking for linkage to see if I need to make a new on I found 5 older ones I've had on the truck from time to time depending which carb and linkage was on it. After Bobby57 gave me those extra parts for the throttle linkage that cleared up a lot of the linkage issues. Sometimes those old farm fixes were not so great.
Charles
Not sure what the series is for that pinto carb. Fired it up and things did not go well. Have some time tomorrow cleaning up s mess that is what I get for not stopping once I got tired. That Carb may end up under a damn sledge hammer before dark thirty tomorrow if it does not get better tomorrow after the power wash cleanup.
This truck has always had carb problems, today while looking for linkage to see if I need to make a new on I found 5 older ones I've had on the truck from time to time depending which carb and linkage was on it. After Bobby57 gave me those extra parts for the throttle linkage that cleared up a lot of the linkage issues. Sometimes those old farm fixes were not so great.
Charles
' Farm Fixes '
They were almost always " hurry up kiss me quick " typ repairs because the hay was lying in the field etc.....
IIRC , those Hollys had flooding issues , I'd double check the tune up complete , valve gaps , points to .016 / 33? dwell then timing to ball on pointer before touching the carby again ~ linkage disconnected it should be possible to make it start & idle , if too fast , then once warmed up you can adjust it to a decent 700 RPM (or less) idle speed , then see if it revs O.K. when you goose it , then begin fiddling with the various linkages & throttle rods as 253 was different than 216 was and even then , GM made many different bits over the decades , cast iron bell cranks , stamped sheet metal ones , on and on .
First and foremost is the bell crank and pivot pin in the side of the cylinder block ~ if the pivot pin has grooves , you'll have to either weld it up then hand file perfectly smooth again or over size the hole in the bell crank and cut a bit of thin wall pipe to suit as a bushing .
The 90? ends tend to be badly worn , again it's best to find good ones (I occasionally see PILES of brandy new rods @ PO-Mona cheaply) , I've had very good luck over the years using " Throttle Rod Clips " (Misnomer : Jesus Clips" to hold the throttle rod's into the joints , or , if your stuck on using those tiny cotter pins , find a supply of good quality flat washers with the *prefect* size hole in them and use two on each 90? connection ~ one on each side of the arm plus more as shims if necessary . if you really like to be clever you can weld a flat washer exactly and perfectly into place at the inner of the 90? bend and it'll hold the rod in the proper position .
The main things are two fold :
# 1 : carby easily starts the engine , idles fine and revs it smoothly when you open the throttle by hand , NO SNAPPING THE THROTTLE WHEN TESTING as it doesn't work thata way when you're driving , the long intake manifold takes a moment to flow the fuel/air mix .
# 2 : set up the linkages so they're smooth and easy to operate by hand ~ if you need a strong return spring , it's wrong and WILL give you grief . egg shaped holes in the arms will bind . welding and drilling is pretty easy but I mean WELDING , not brazing nor soldering ! best is gas welding .if it has brass color on it , it's far too soft and will rapidly wear and screw up again .
# 3 : the return spring MUST be weak and have as many coils in it as you can find ~ the more coils , the better it'll work ~ most places try to sell you a too stiff , to short the coil pack spring , this causes not only binding and high idle but also rapid wear of all those throttle linkages you spent so much time getting " Just So " .
I typically find the very best throttle linkage parts & springs , in junk boxes and on the worst looking junkers you've ever seen .
I might have some linkage bits left over you're welcome to as I'm deeply in debt to you for Cactus .
I hope this was helpful .
They were almost always " hurry up kiss me quick " typ repairs because the hay was lying in the field etc.....
IIRC , those Hollys had flooding issues , I'd double check the tune up complete , valve gaps , points to .016 / 33? dwell then timing to ball on pointer before touching the carby again ~ linkage disconnected it should be possible to make it start & idle , if too fast , then once warmed up you can adjust it to a decent 700 RPM (or less) idle speed , then see if it revs O.K. when you goose it , then begin fiddling with the various linkages & throttle rods as 253 was different than 216 was and even then , GM made many different bits over the decades , cast iron bell cranks , stamped sheet metal ones , on and on .
First and foremost is the bell crank and pivot pin in the side of the cylinder block ~ if the pivot pin has grooves , you'll have to either weld it up then hand file perfectly smooth again or over size the hole in the bell crank and cut a bit of thin wall pipe to suit as a bushing .
The 90? ends tend to be badly worn , again it's best to find good ones (I occasionally see PILES of brandy new rods @ PO-Mona cheaply) , I've had very good luck over the years using " Throttle Rod Clips " (Misnomer : Jesus Clips" to hold the throttle rod's into the joints , or , if your stuck on using those tiny cotter pins , find a supply of good quality flat washers with the *prefect* size hole in them and use two on each 90? connection ~ one on each side of the arm plus more as shims if necessary . if you really like to be clever you can weld a flat washer exactly and perfectly into place at the inner of the 90? bend and it'll hold the rod in the proper position .
The main things are two fold :
# 1 : carby easily starts the engine , idles fine and revs it smoothly when you open the throttle by hand , NO SNAPPING THE THROTTLE WHEN TESTING as it doesn't work thata way when you're driving , the long intake manifold takes a moment to flow the fuel/air mix .
# 2 : set up the linkages so they're smooth and easy to operate by hand ~ if you need a strong return spring , it's wrong and WILL give you grief . egg shaped holes in the arms will bind . welding and drilling is pretty easy but I mean WELDING , not brazing nor soldering ! best is gas welding .if it has brass color on it , it's far too soft and will rapidly wear and screw up again .
# 3 : the return spring MUST be weak and have as many coils in it as you can find ~ the more coils , the better it'll work ~ most places try to sell you a too stiff , to short the coil pack spring , this causes not only binding and high idle but also rapid wear of all those throttle linkages you spent so much time getting " Just So " .
I typically find the very best throttle linkage parts & springs , in junk boxes and on the worst looking junkers you've ever seen .
I might have some linkage bits left over you're welcome to as I'm deeply in debt to you for Cactus .
I hope this was helpful .
ccharr
Member
Nate,
Thanks for both posts they are really full of needed info.
I finished up today with enough to get the truck to the muffler shop in the morning and then back to work on the carb linkage again. Way too many little MacGyverisums today way too many. It caused the day to go so slow, also had to go to 4 different parts houses to just get vacuum line, they were trying to sell me gas line and clamps. Had to run over to Pep Boys in San Fernando to get the stuff which took some time I could have used fixing the linkage.
I have a few more cacti to get to you which the neighbors may not like even parking near. Again these are cactus that will not take the climate at my property in Az.
Again Thanks for the info.
Charles
Thanks for both posts they are really full of needed info.
I finished up today with enough to get the truck to the muffler shop in the morning and then back to work on the carb linkage again. Way too many little MacGyverisums today way too many. It caused the day to go so slow, also had to go to 4 different parts houses to just get vacuum line, they were trying to sell me gas line and clamps. Had to run over to Pep Boys in San Fernando to get the stuff which took some time I could have used fixing the linkage.
I have a few more cacti to get to you which the neighbors may not like even parking near. Again these are cactus that will not take the climate at my property in Az.
Again Thanks for the info.
Charles
Fun Times !
Donch'a just love the endless running around , Charles ?
.
I get stuck doing this too sometimes .
You'll get there sooner or later .
I drove the damn Camry to work to - day after replacing the " new " (! NOT !) Drive axle that broke , and cleaning all that damn grease that flayed out all over the car , engine and tranny ~ it runs nice , shifts smoothly and so on . the original radio plays superbly too .
On the way home ,. the alternator light came on
.
Maybe it's pissed off I rescued it from a Junkyard ? wants to go back and be destroyed by boobs with bent screwdrivers , hammers & loose pliers ? .
I dunno but I'm nearing $5,000.00 on a 1991 Camry LE , a $1,200.00 car at best no matter how smooth & quiet it is , ICE COLD AC be damned .
At least I don't have to drive it when I'm not fixing it
.
I tore up The Pasadena Freeway @ 04:30 this morning , in spite of the wretched 'Tokyo Squish ' power steering (the Saginaw Squish PS on my '69 C/10 has better Road Feel) it handles O.K. in the sharp bends @ 85 MPH .
Donch'a just love the endless running around , Charles ?
.I get stuck doing this too sometimes .
You'll get there sooner or later .
I drove the damn Camry to work to - day after replacing the " new " (! NOT !) Drive axle that broke , and cleaning all that damn grease that flayed out all over the car , engine and tranny ~ it runs nice , shifts smoothly and so on . the original radio plays superbly too .
On the way home ,. the alternator light came on
.Maybe it's pissed off I rescued it from a Junkyard ? wants to go back and be destroyed by boobs with bent screwdrivers , hammers & loose pliers ? .
I dunno but I'm nearing $5,000.00 on a 1991 Camry LE , a $1,200.00 car at best no matter how smooth & quiet it is , ICE COLD AC be damned .
At least I don't have to drive it when I'm not fixing it
.I tore up The Pasadena Freeway @ 04:30 this morning , in spite of the wretched 'Tokyo Squish ' power steering (the Saginaw Squish PS on my '69 C/10 has better Road Feel) it handles O.K. in the sharp bends @ 85 MPH .
ccharr
Member
Still need to scrub the truck real good to get the oil spray off her. Or just wipe it down with the old crank case oil from the tractors. I had left off an oil return line Saturday night and so I figured a quick lets see if it will start check would not hurt. But before I seen the oil everywhere on the right side to shut the key off it had sprayed a quart or more of oil 
under, 
on, in, around, inside, next to, on the drive way, everywhere but in the drip pan, or on the kitty litter I had piled under the truck because when I started it without having any exhaust pipe hooked up the blast blew the litter, everywhere but where it was needed to soak any oil up..
It will start and run really fast till the auto choke opens then I can not get the idle to a good point. The new to me manifolds leak some, to much for me, well way to much, the carb has a big flat spot in it. Once past the little crap it has some very good acceleration considering what is wrong right now. The linkage will work for now I need a softer spring for it. It does run a lot better than it did when I put this carb on the other 2 times.
Charles
under, on, in, around, inside, next to, on the drive way, everywhere but in the drip pan, or on the kitty litter I had piled under the truck because when I started it without having any exhaust pipe hooked up the blast blew the litter, everywhere but where it was needed to soak any oil up.. It will start and run really fast till the auto choke opens then I can not get the idle to a good point. The new to me manifolds leak some, to much for me, well way to much, the carb has a big flat spot in it. Once past the little crap it has some very good acceleration considering what is wrong right now. The linkage will work for now I need a softer spring for it. It does run a lot better than it did when I put this carb on the other 2 times.
Charles
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? Progress ?
LOL Charles ~
I think you've been following my methods a little too closely .
FWIW , as long as there's ANY vacuum leaks , anywhere , the carby will not and cannot , operate correctly so work on sorting that out for now ~ get a long straight edge and lay it across the combined inlet & exhaust connections to see if the entire assembled manifold is true , even .010" is really bad here , DO NOT " Pull a Nate " and try to plane it flat with a BIG old bastard file ~ if it's not true , take it to the Machine Shop and pay the $35 to have it planed .
LOL Charles ~
I think you've been following my methods a little too closely .
FWIW , as long as there's ANY vacuum leaks , anywhere , the carby will not and cannot , operate correctly so work on sorting that out for now ~ get a long straight edge and lay it across the combined inlet & exhaust connections to see if the entire assembled manifold is true , even .010" is really bad here , DO NOT " Pull a Nate " and try to plane it flat with a BIG old bastard file ~ if it's not true , take it to the Machine Shop and pay the $35 to have it planed .
ccharr
Member
Nate,
Due to the back acting up through this ordeal this weekend I may have to wait some, we will see how far I get on the next leg of the change over.
Due to the back acting up through this ordeal this weekend I may have to wait some, we will see how far I get on the next leg of the change over.
Zig
Member
Hope your back pain is going away by now, Charles. Don't know which is worse~ tooth or back pain. 
ccharr
Member
Thanks Paul,
The Back Pain seems to never go away , however those shots in the roof of the mouth are are some of the nastiest pain of all.
Charles
The Back Pain seems to never go away
, however those shots in the roof of the mouth are are some of the nastiest pain of all. Charles