delrio
Member
Iam debating to fix the floors on my cab or replace cab?
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What would it cost to buy a complet
- Thread starter delrio
- Start date
K
Knuckledragger
Guest
RE: What would it cost to buy a com
It depends on how the rest of your cab is? I am going to try and find a better cab for my 68 because I need new rocker panels on both sides, floors on both sides new passenger side cab corner, floor supports, and the roof headliner patch panel... I ahve found a cab for 150 so I am going to go that route instead of trying to get my cab in better condition... It seems that would be the easier of the two routes.. But if my cab didnt need so much work I would just replace the floors and rockers.. It depends on if you can weld and do body work on which will be the more cost effective
Jonney
It depends on how the rest of your cab is? I am going to try and find a better cab for my 68 because I need new rocker panels on both sides, floors on both sides new passenger side cab corner, floor supports, and the roof headliner patch panel... I ahve found a cab for 150 so I am going to go that route instead of trying to get my cab in better condition... It seems that would be the easier of the two routes.. But if my cab didnt need so much work I would just replace the floors and rockers.. It depends on if you can weld and do body work on which will be the more cost effective
Jonney
advanced design
Member
RE: What would it cost to buy a com
I have learned the hard way - even if you have the skills and tools to replace the floor (and often all the other attaching parts!) it is often easier and in the long run cheaper to go out and find a more solid body.
I have learned the hard way - even if you have the skills and tools to replace the floor (and often all the other attaching parts!) it is often easier and in the long run cheaper to go out and find a more solid body.
smoov330
Member
RE: What would it cost to buy a com
Wel I replaced the floor pans ( front and toe board) the lower hinge pillar, one cab corner one step w/rocker panel and two front outer cab corners and I think it cost me a total of about $400. I thought the same thing, maybe I should have gotten another cab but unless you can find one in perfect cond. youll still have body work to do.Its not that hard,as I was amazed that you could actually take a BFH to the metal. Just do one thing at a time. Dont remove the whole floor at once. The floor pans fit pretty good, not a whole lot of modifying....
Wel I replaced the floor pans ( front and toe board) the lower hinge pillar, one cab corner one step w/rocker panel and two front outer cab corners and I think it cost me a total of about $400. I thought the same thing, maybe I should have gotten another cab but unless you can find one in perfect cond. youll still have body work to do.Its not that hard,as I was amazed that you could actually take a BFH to the metal. Just do one thing at a time. Dont remove the whole floor at once. The floor pans fit pretty good, not a whole lot of modifying....
advanced design
Member
RE: What would it cost to buy a com
Good point. I am going through pretty much the same processes on my midwestern bought truck and will have spent a little more on the parts. I enjoy the work (this is a hobby, right?) but the hours (actually many days, guess I work slowly) replacing the rusted metal could have been applied to completing other tasks toward the restoration and eventual driving enjoyment of this truck.
For the same purchase price I could have found a much more solid example in the southwest. Even with the cost and time of hauling it back to the midwest I'd be further ahead at this point.
True, even the west Texas Suburban (next project) I recently hauled home needs some floor work however it needs way less metal work than the truck.
Guess my thoughts are to find the most solid body for the best value you can then jump in with both feet and have fun.
Thanks for listening,
Doug
Good point. I am going through pretty much the same processes on my midwestern bought truck and will have spent a little more on the parts. I enjoy the work (this is a hobby, right?) but the hours (actually many days, guess I work slowly) replacing the rusted metal could have been applied to completing other tasks toward the restoration and eventual driving enjoyment of this truck.
For the same purchase price I could have found a much more solid example in the southwest. Even with the cost and time of hauling it back to the midwest I'd be further ahead at this point.
True, even the west Texas Suburban (next project) I recently hauled home needs some floor work however it needs way less metal work than the truck.
Guess my thoughts are to find the most solid body for the best value you can then jump in with both feet and have fun.
Thanks for listening,
Doug