All I am at whit's end. The 53 is 12v and I have a new wiring harness and turn signal assembly form our host. The front blinkers (in running lights) work great the back blinkers both blink on both left and right signal. I have been across the wiring a couple of times, ran ground from both rear lights to two different grounds. I'm stumped and in need of some help. Thanks All! Papy
These trucks didn't come with turn signals, so a stock wiring harness will not support them. Do the brake lights work properly?
Turn signals~ You're going to all the trouble to hook them up. Folks around here don't even use them. I'm getting ready tp hook my wiring harness up. If you haven't figured it out by then, maybe I can help you. My harness was from our host and had the sheet that said where all the wires went.
Ah Zig Bill. I bought the harness that allowed you to hook up blinkers or I think I did. It had instructions on how to wire stock and w/turn signals. Break lights and running lights work fine. I have been over the wires and diagram several times. There is no doubt I have something wrong just don't know what. Zig I know no one in this little town uses them but...the old truck and I are taking my youngest daughter to her wedding on the 27th up close to the city (KC). Be nice to have turn signals up there. Her request so we will be there maybe with a wind dried left hand. Thanks Papy
Most of the aftermarket t/s switches use the 60's or newer GM wire color coding. Your left rear wire should be yellow and the right rear green. Test these at the column. If you get the same result unplug the plug and run a 12v jumper to the purple contact in the plug feeding the t/s switch and test again. The green and yellow contacts should light your test light individually but both should not do so simultaneously. If they do the t/s switch is bad. Now run 12v to the white wire (brake light feed) contact and BOTH the green and yellow should light the test light with the t/s lever in the neutral position. With the lever in the left position the yellow should be hot but not the green. With the lever in the right position the green should be hot but not the yellow. If all this is as should be then the t/s switch is good and you have crossover voltage somewhere in the wiring. Wish I had gotten contact info from you sooner (my fault) and I would have swung by and maybe sorted it out.
Thanks Thanks Evan I'll try that tonight after work. My fault on the swing by. The household has been busy getting ready for the wedding. I'll let you know what I find. Papy
Tested the turn signal switch it works as it should so. Problem is in the harness somewhere. Yeehaw. I think I'm going to chase that down after the wedding. Hope the folks in the city know I'm signaling and not just waving. Thanks Evan. Couldn't see the trees for the forest. Papy
Okay~ So I got mine wired back together. Do your taillights have two bulbs in each one, or just one bulb? (Mine have two) My harness also has a stop/turn line for each, and a running light wire for each. The front running lights have only one bulb, but two wires. The bulb is a double filament. As Evan said about the colors for each side. Good luck!
Zig Got then two bulb version from our host. Glad yours is together. When do we get to see the shake down cruise? You have got to be close. Papy
Well here's the deal~ Yup, I got my running lights and tail lights~ stop and turn signals all work, and the little blinker in the turn signal switch works great too. HOWEVER!!!! When I pull the switch out to light the headlights, The parking lights just get a tad brighter. (The headlights have a faint glow deep down inside) That's it. BTW, I ground the metal down right around where the dimmer switch mounts to the floorboard to make sure it was making good contact. Ideas on what to check?
These are good questions, and yes I am! I got to get the headlight thing solved, grease some zerks, still change some fluids, and I'm sure a couple other little things, but YES!!! Finally I am CLOSE!!! If you watched Roberts burn out and blasting down the road, just wait until you see MINE!
Headlights Paul ; The dimmer switch doesn't need nor want a ground ~ the headlight have three wires , one needs to be grounded to the body's sheet metal . I do (and enjoy) a lot of electrical works and I can tell you , you're very close on the headlights . The dimmer switch gets power from the headlight switch and diverts it to one of the other leg in it's three wires .
Agreed Well I have to agree with this heading I hate wiring... IT scares me to pieces. I have been able to do about everything on my ole 52 except the wiring and it is a mess. Oh yeah each wire is marked about every 18 inches or so as to where it goes now thats all fine and dandy but example head light switch it has 5 lugs on that switch which one takes the head lights, tail lights, parking lights ??? crazy. So i figure just hook em up turn on the head lights and if they don't come on I got it wrong so I'll try another lug and see if I get it right. As for the turn signals ??? oh goodness.
Just started working on the wiring .... I found using a trace wire and a volt ohm meter that has an audible continuity speaker is of great help. So I take a long wire, not part of the wiring loom, connect an alligator clip to each end. I think connect to a volt ohm meter. Then I check from say the tail light to the switch on the dash. I think this wire is correct, is it? Is it going where I thought it connected it? I've been doing this prior to hooking up the battery. So far found 2 miss-wired connections. Haasman
Karen With the new harness the turn signals should have been pretty straight forward for my truck. They just don't work. I must have nicked or melted or miss-wired something...and then got frustrated. Evan got me back on track and my production mgr at the plant set me straight. Told me to stop and when I wasn't frustrated with it go back to it. Patience. Lessons learned. Zig. I love the blue painters tape. I used a bunch of it doing my wiring. Sure was easier to read than those little numbers. Papy
