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1949 Chevy 3600......making it a daily driver!!

I really enjoy this thread, I go back and reread the whole thing from time to time. Thanks a million for sharing it all on this forum.
This weekend while I was keeping the tuck at 70 to 75 miles an hour be I in Ca. or Az. I did so in comfort which is the end result of our labors. Keep up the great work and photos.

Charles
 
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Fab guy finally came though with my parts. I got a little bit of time last night and an hour this morning before work to get some stuff done.

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I was able to get both outside pieces tacked in before having to go work.

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Made some great progress today. The step notch and top caps are installed. I was able to use a brake to bend the caps which I think look a lot better.

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I actually bent both angles on the cap in one piece but screwed up the measurement so I was 1/2" long.

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How I ended the day. I would say about 60% welded in. Hope to finish up the top side and get the bottom cut out on Friday!!

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I was jumping back and forth between 3/16 and 1/4. I told the fab guy 1/4 and then called him the next day and left him a message to do the parts in 3/16. He never got the message until after the parts were made........
 
It's always interesting to watch true Hot Rodding as it occurs .

Keep the details and photos coming please .
 
Had another great afternoon in the garage. I picked up some 2" x 2" x 3/16 square tubing to span the frame rails on the front side of the cross member.

Installing that was the first order of business. After than it was final weld time, at least on the top side.

Took awhile, jumping around so as not to heat any area up to much, and paying attention to the duty cycle on the welder.

All said and done, this is what I got!!

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Goal tomorrow is to get my bag cup dimensions figured out for the back. Also want to flip the frame and final weld the bottom.
 
Coach, that is really excellent looking work. I understand, now, how the I.R.S. subframe adds strength to the rest of the trucks rear frame. Looks plenty stout, with everything welded in.
It doesn't appear, you could go any lower.
I'm interested to see how you solve the front end ball joint binding issue. I would think aftermarket tubular control arms would be made with the same design dimensions, as factory stamped ones. A 2" drop spindle would get you lower, but, you would always ride lower. Maybe not what your looking for?
Thanks for the updates.

Steve.
 
Really busy weekend. Buttoned up most of the rear end install yesterday.

Today I assembled the front end enough to at least make the chassis a roller. It was nice to get it out of the shop and get a good cleaning done.

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Rear end sits about perfect. Running boards are about 3/4" off the ground when laid out.

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Front end still needs to go down about an inch. Set up right now is completely stock S-10 stuff. I was thinking I would need some drop spindles, but now I think I might be able to get by without.

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Bumpers are just touching.....

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Is all of this FUN... or what? The pictures are awesome.

Looking at the last few pictures I think modified UCA's would solve the bind issue. Used S10 UCA's are a dime a dozen, so it isn't like you'd be cutting up rare pieces if you did modify them. And it is the LCA that does all the heavy lifting- the UCA "just" holds the spindle at the correct orientation.

Keep the pictures coming, please.
 
I really like the the way the rear wheels butterfly in when the frame is lowered
Thanks for posting the great pics
 
Those are the only kind he takes.
I can't wait to see this frame all nice and black!
 
I spent an hour in the garage tonight thinking about building air bag cups and mounts. Below is a picture of the suspension in full squish and at ride height.

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The 7" bag really fills up the space. Looks like I will need to open up the notch a bit just to give me some room around the bag. Should have about 3/4" of clearance all around the bag after opening it up.

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I am going to build some 3.5" cups, and hopefully give it a try in the next couple days.
 
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