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For all those folks wanting to do an S10 swap

Winchster

Winchster

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I beat this horse to death once before but with the updated forum it looks like the information is lost. If you don't have the grand to spend on the special kit from AD, then all you really have to do is spend about $250-$350 bucks on a front saddle from any '73 - '87 half ton truck and just bolt it up under your existing frame.

Mine has been done for about 5 years now, and I love it. Only thing I'm gonna change is getting me some actual lowered springs instead of cutting them and I'm also gonna try and get the sway bar to mount.
 
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S-10 swap

Are you saying a 73 - 87 S-10 front end will replace a 1953 1/2 front end, no modifications - go to a wrecking yard and pick one up. Does it fit the steering Pittman arm ok and does it sit at the same height? I did all the front end work that could be done (I am a novice), but it still wanders the road too much for my liking. Thank you.
KentC
 
No, I am saying that a FULL SIZE C10 front saddle will fit easily under your existing frame with no more modifications than adding spacers to make up the frame width and either cutting or buying lowering springs to set the ride height. All you really have to do is measure everything at least twice, cut or unbolt, remove the old front end springs, axles and all and roll the new saddle under it.
 
Yes, it is that easy. The only thing I didn't like on mine was where the steering box is mounted as it interferes with the bumper mount. I had mine 75% finished when I pulled it back off to go another route. I welded on the 1/2 plate to each side of the frame so if I wanted, I could re-install the clip and do it again. Just my .02.

Mike
 
Rear End

Does the 69 differential fit with no modifications? Is it a higher gear speed than the original in a 53 3100 - zoom down the road faster/safer?
Kent
 
The later model crossmember in the AD suffers from just the opposite malady from the S10. Where the S10 front is too narrow, the 71 and up front, ( to get 5 bolt disc brakes), is too wide and requires wheels with at least 1" more backspacing to get the tires back under the fenders. When doing this be sure to tie the right and left frame horns back together with a piece of tubing because if you cut the very front crossmember off to gain needed clearance it will let the leftside frame horn flex badly and eventually crack. You will find there is no way to balance this assembly on a jack but if you tack a spring U bolt to the back lip, centered from side to side, then it will balance perfectly on your hoist chain. Of course the engine has to be out for this procedure. If you use the stock motor mounts on this crossmember the engine will sit very low. The best, very best, was the AMC Pacer front. It was the exact same width, power rack, disc brakes, and you can get a no weld bolt in kit from Chassis Engineering. The only thing is it is now extinct and replacement parts have been discontinued.
 
As far as the too wide thing goes, it is only too wide if you maintain the original rearend. I will take some pics if you want me to and post them. I personally like the way it looks. I don't have offset wheels, and the total distance extended from the fenders is only about 3/4 of an inch. I would have to go back outside to check the tire size, but if anyone is truly interested I will be happy to get all the pertinent information. The reasons to do this swap are as good as any other swap and better than the mustang ii front end for some really good ones. 1. The mustang stuff is designed for a very small car, not a truck. 2. The mustang stuff is very expensive for the AVERAGE guy that works 40 hrs a week and is trying to maintain a hobby. There are a lot of alternatives, but I didn't want to cut or weld my frame back together and the only welding required is to weld the brackets to the rear differential. The front end BOLTS on, just use grade 8 bolts and it is a LOT cheaper than ANY other IFS system that I have seen and believe me I looked for a long time to try and find an inexpensive way to add disc brakes and power steering to my beloved truck.

P.S. I did not use the stock motor mounts for the front saddle, I had previously added the 350 and had motor mounts welded to the frame.

As always this is my .02 cents worth and everyone is entitled to their own opinion, I just thought I'd throw out an idea that's been around for a while, and one that I have personally done. My reasons were very simple. COST,COST,COST
 
Hey Winchester,I just got 1949 chevy truck this year and i'm looking to build a truck on a college kid budget. I know this is irrelavant to this thread and I read what u wrote about the 73-87 halfton front end swap. But before i go out and buy one from my local junkyard, i wanted some directions from someone who has done the swap. Also, i had a few questions about the swap itself. {So, all i have to do is take my original frontend equipment off my 1949 frame. Then take my 1973-87 c-10 frontend and attach it to my 49 frame and it will just bolt right up(no welding involved)... <Am i correct thus far> Also, will the steering column and power steering brake booster off the 73-87 work with the conversion as well? And could i also use the rearend off of the 73- 87 truck.
thanks
 
I am new here but have read your comments on the S10 frame swaps.
I too am interested in changing to get PS, PDB and better ride.
I would like to see the pictures of the 73-87 front crossmember installed, showing the tire location in the fenders.
If not too wide then, How close to the fenders are the tires?
Backspaced wheels to bring in?
Any Turning limits?
Spacers between 49 frame and newer crossmember?

Thanks,
Walt
 
Here are some pics. If you want or need something specific just let me know and I will happily go take them.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h39/winchster/Picture001.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h39/winchster/Picture002.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h39/winchster/Picture003.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h39/winchster/Picture004.jpg

If not too wide then, How close to the fenders are the tires? see pics
Backspaced wheels to bring in? If you want to get them
Any Turning limits? NO
Spacers between 49 frame and newer crossmember? Yes
 
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Thanks for response.
But the link to pictures gave a message that pics have been moved or deleted.
Did I have a problem or ?

Walt
 
Thanks,
Got it finally to work.
I could not get to the server last night for some reason.

So the front tires sit outside the fenders?
That seems a little wide, but I guess a couple of inches could be cut from center of crossmember or deep dish wheels set back like front wheel drive wheels.

Again thanks.
Walt
 
I'm building a 48 chevy truck and I'm trying the S-10 swap. I measured the front end and it is the same as my stock truck. The wheel base is 6 inches short but I'm going to take care of that by moving the rear leaf hanger back and I'm installing air ride technologies air bar 4 link kit for an S-10 Also using the shock wave bags up front with tubular A arms. I should have enough room to put 20 x 8.5 rims up front and 22 x 10 rims in the back. I'm using the rear axle from a newer S-10 blazer to have the rear disk set up. If anyone has tried this let me know.
 
Measure the length of the rear to see if it will fit where you want.
Normally the S10- 2 wheel drive rear is too narrow and must use the S10- 4 wheel drive rear or one from a Camaro, etc.

As for wheel base, you can splice the S10 frame to correct wheel base.
The S10 regular cab 2 wheel drive, long bed ( about 118) will be just right.
Remember, the original short bed rear (about 116 inch wheel base) was setting about 2 inches too far forward ( making wheel not centered in wheel opening).

Just my Thoughts,
Walt
 
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I was planning on using the rear end out of a 1998 and newer four wheel drive blazer because of the correct width plus the rear on them were disk brakes. I didn't think about the 116 inches being to short. Thanks for the advice on extending it to 118 inches. The good thing about using the four link setup I don't have to cut the frame, I can just move the hangers back because the 4-link doesn't utilize the rear hanger bracket. Check out the air bar system on www.ridetech.com. It's really a cool setup.

Thanks for the info

Kevin
 
Anyone interested in putting a '73-'87 front saddle on an AD truck should go to the chevytrucks.org website, go to the tech section and take a look at the article there about this conversion. Listed as "How to install a 63-87IFS in an AD truck" I've done this to my '50 and rather than use spacers on the sides, I took an inch or so out of the middle of the saddle, welded the two halves back together, and added some 1/2" plates to beef the joint up. It slides right on and bolts up. I hope by taking out the extra space that I'll have an easier time keeping the tires inside the fenders.Lots of good pictures with this article too. There are a couple of other tech sites out there that show how to do this job.
 
Winchster said:
I beat this horse to death once before but with the updated forum it looks like the information is lost. If you don't have the grand to spend on the special kit from AD, then all you really have to do is spend about $250-$350 bucks on a front saddle from any '73 - '87 half ton truck and just bolt it up under your existing frame.

Mine has been done for about 5 years now, and I love it. Only thing I'm gonna change is getting me some actual lowered springs instead of cutting them and I'm also gonna try and get the sway bar to mount.
Click to expand...
Can you send me some pictures how it looks
 
f4fantm2^^^ above post number 18.

This is the way to do that swap. Requires clamping and bracing to prevent warpage when re-welding the saddle after taking out the "extra" metal in the middle and precise cutting but that is the way to get bolt-in IFS on the cheap.
Andy
 
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