Update for the newbies.....I have condensed my tech threads from this thread and others onto one thread......https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/ol-chebbys-how-to-tech-s.17990/. Feel free to consult often. I am building this 53 5 window. It has finally been painted, now time for assembly. I will attempt to take detailed photos from start to finish on building this truck. Next will be a new Harness, but for now, here we are. Here it is emerging from the booth. We cleaned and blacked the frame, under coated under the cab, and now it is time to start assembly! I will update as the build progresses. Check out this web album showing the truck so far. It is in chronological order from when it was bought at Charlotte Auto Fair, spring 07 to present. http://picasaweb.google.com/rpettycustommurals/JimS53#
Thanks for the memories. I have a set of photos that are very similar. I am really glad you are doing this for all to see. Gater
I knew there were certain issues when it was bought, but of course found more. The whole truck had apparently been spray polyed, then nicely finished. It only had one other paint job after the factory. It is the nicest driving AD I have ever encountered. Now it will look as nice as it drives.
Current progress is wiring, go to this post....how to wire an AD...https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/how-to-wire-an-ad.9536/
Time for fender welting on the rear fenders. Start by spreading a thin layer of weatherstrip adhesive on the fender lip. Lay out welt and cut to approximate size. Run another thin layer of adhesive across the welt and adhere to straight run. Glue down and tapr to hold in place. Bend welt around curved section, and it will show you where to notch by buckling. Cut v notches, Then glue and tape down. Now have someone hold the fender up for you and insert hardware.. See how nice and finished the welt looks. Cut the welt even with the bottom of the bed.
Stuff the cowl drain tube into the hole and glue on to tube with weatherstrip cement. Run a bead of weatherstrip adhesive around cowl vent channel then on rubber seal. Press seal gently into place, DO NOT stretch. It should fit snug and level. I have used rubber and foam, with about the same results. They still can leak in a bad rain. To start the hood anti rattle strip, first get the screw through the rubber, about 1/4" from the end. Screw into the first hole. Pull it taught, but do not stretch, screw into next hole. Finish all mounts. Cut off end 1/4" from clip. do the other side. There is MUCH swearing involved in pushing the temp sender through the small round hole in the grommet. The oil is no problem.
Now for the hood hinges....I put some strip caulk around the hinge backside to seal it up from leaks. 2 bolts from under the dash, one from the outside. Snug everything up, when hood is lined up, then tighten it down. Put tape under the lower arm so you don't get scratches. Use tape EVERYWHERE you are working...when you get busy and don't think about it, that is when you willl damage something. Hood spring....instal lower bolt first.. set hinge on.. And upper bolt.... We blasted the tailgate which we all thought was solid......it wasn't. New tailgate will be here today.
Russ, This is very cool. You are just a few steps ahead of me and your photos are the best Christmas present I will receive this year. [I hope that doesn't sound too pathetic] That is some garage you have!! Thanks much. Greg
What Greg said! This site just gets better and better! Russ, you really are bringing the manual to life! This is W-A-Y better than the black and white prints are! Thanks for what you're doing! Paul
Um , This tutorial is SO good I hate to nit pick but you don't show the all important oversize washers on the hood hinge inside bolts..... Also missing is the caulking on the hood hinge . Your advice here is TOP NOTCH and I know many will follow it , I will . I wonder if that tailgate could simply be welded or brazed up and re-used by someone with a work truck... It's far better than the bent and broken one on my '49 , the DPO's body shop just welded the split pinchweld and added a few PopRivets then re-painted it , anyone who knows a darn thing about old cars and trucks , looks at it in amazement ......
Unfortunately, that is not my shop, it is the body shop who painted it. If anyone sees something I missed, chime in. I am not a proffessional, but I stayed at a holiday inn express last night.......Remember, This is the way I do it, and there is more than one way to skin a cat. I found the oversize washers after I took the pic.s. I will throw the leftover parts in the pile for the next build. I may have a chop top cab and a GMC front end project next. Might be going on a dakota chassis. I'm thinking Kustom rod, full of louvers, no extra B.S. natural patina..........
I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express! Now that's funny, I don't care who you are! Everything you've posted so far is top notch and again, thanks for taking the time. This thread should be a "sticky". One thing I've done in the past that makes installation of the fender welt go smoothly is cut "V" notches in the welting especially where you have a severe curve to negotiate. Keeps from having to overlap material and lays down well. I too believe in spraying with adhesive. Thanks again dude! Like everyone has said, these pics and advise beat the pants of the old b/w reprints and tech writing! Ken
Many thanks Russ - What they said. Thanks again for your efforts and time. This is great info and will be widely used and is greatly appreciated.
! Agreed ! You clearly have above average talent and the ability to explain it and show how it's done so don't ever doubt your abilty nor helpfulness !
honeydos good thing about being in the north east the honeydews have all fallen off the vine by this time of the year Bill
