My kid is finally showing some interest in getting the beast on the road again. (His slow pace on this project is killing me.) We're going through the brakes, decided on disks up front. I'm (still) debating on manual vs power brakes. I've been looking on-line at various booster kits, and they just seem too long to fit in the truck; it looks like the transmission crossmember would be in the way of the master cylinder. The truck is a '51 and has a factory 4-on-the-floor transmission. Does anyone know if the 4-speed tranny requires a different crossmember than a 3-speed?
I had to remove the crossmember to get the booster to fit. I have a saginaw 4 speed in there and it did not require a tranny crossmember. It has been there for two years and i have not had any problems with regular town driving and no overweight conditions as we are both retired. I also had to shave a couple bolt heads on my 4 speed shifter to make things workable. I love the power booster even with Huck brakes. Flashlight
Thanks for the quick response. I don't think this truck will ever see the loads it used to carry down on the farm, so I'm guessing we won't have any overweight issues, either. Well, besides me in the cab, that is.
I bought a frame mount booster one time. It didn't fit with a turbo 400 under there (this was before my infatuation with the inline 6). Crossmember should be the same regardless of the tranny. I thought it was advertised to mount in the same master cylinder location without any modificaitions (if your using the original tranny/motor). Correct me please if I'm wrong.
They lied!! Its close but would not make it. I chalked it up to mine being a 47' which still had a few left-overs in it from the 41-46 era. But I hear martinius with the same issues in his 53'. Flashlight
That would be the case wouldn't it! If we lived in a perfect world we wouldn't have to modify a darn thing.
Power Brakes They do make & sell tiny little power boosters that fit sans cutting the cross member . I don't recall who nor where but I know the info is out there as I've read about it many times . Keep looking ! . This is a worthwhile safety up grade .
We have used longer actuator rods from the pedal to the booster that are 1/2" diameter and turned down to 3/8" where it enters the booster with no problem. This moves the brake unit away from all the clutter and can pass through the frame or crossmember if necessary. It's not necessary for the m-c to be in the factory location.
Compromized solution. Hey there Evan A gentleman i have talked to on a carshow in Malmouth had done excactly what you are mentioning. It would be great to see some pics that shows of the way of how doing it , maybe others have that kind of the information. CPP has not responded any moore so i am stucked with some expencive brakebooster (drum/drum) here i `d rather want to use. Martinius.
Martinius, here are two pictures I found in my completely disorganised files. The first is one I just took of a 54 Ford pickup that has the brake unit moved back about 25cm. Note the factory fluid filler hole. The rod is 6061 T6 aluminum which is good for up to 45cm or so in length. Anything longer I'd use stainless and if very long a center support. The second pictures are of a 37 Chevy 2 ton truck where GM turned the master cylinder around backwards and had a pull rod from the pedal to a bellcrank which then had a push rod into the mc. This was done to clear trucks with PTO's on the left side of the transmissions. We did a 1930 Plymouth that has the booster/mc mounted just in front of the left rear axle; it uses a long pull rod to a bellcrank which then has the regular push rod into the mc.
I run a 7" booster, it is barely wider than the M/C. If you extend the booster back, DO NOT use threaded rod....it will bend. We are straightening out a 49 Ferd shoebox in the shop that someone else did this to. The rod bent as soon as the pedal was pressed.
Thanks, everyone, for the great info. I knew y'all would come throgh. I have seen pictures of small boosters. I'll keep looking
