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Progress, however slow... but isn't it about the JOURNEY?
- Thread starter 52wasp
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52wasp
Member
Weekly progress update
Good morning all, here is my weekly photo upload. Good progress this past week. I punched a hole in the rear bed crossmember for spare tire-hoist access. The small rectangular cover (currently bare black plastic- to be painted to match bed) and the hoist are from a 99-07 full-size GM truck. The old "mockup" hoist is visible here. I have a new one in-hand, it just needs some modification (like the old one got). I also drilled the access thru-hole in the spare tire crossmember. Everything lines up nicely. The part behind the cover required some slicing and dicing with the band saw, followed by some plastic-welding to put it back together to fit.
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I also punched the bedside to accept the original AD (cab mounted) filler neck. It will require a 45-degree bent piece of filler-neck hose to make the connection.
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I have also (finally) drilled ALL of the mounting holes for the AD conversion kit mounting, and have fastened all the cab and bed mounts with Grade 8 hardware. Running board brackets are next. I also had a lightbulb moment where I figured out how I was going to attach the rear-bumper "bracketry" to the frame. Pictures of that to follow as it comes together.
Mike
Good morning all, here is my weekly photo upload. Good progress this past week. I punched a hole in the rear bed crossmember for spare tire-hoist access. The small rectangular cover (currently bare black plastic- to be painted to match bed) and the hoist are from a 99-07 full-size GM truck. The old "mockup" hoist is visible here. I have a new one in-hand, it just needs some modification (like the old one got). I also drilled the access thru-hole in the spare tire crossmember. Everything lines up nicely. The part behind the cover required some slicing and dicing with the band saw, followed by some plastic-welding to put it back together to fit.
I also punched the bedside to accept the original AD (cab mounted) filler neck. It will require a 45-degree bent piece of filler-neck hose to make the connection.
I have also (finally) drilled ALL of the mounting holes for the AD conversion kit mounting, and have fastened all the cab and bed mounts with Grade 8 hardware. Running board brackets are next. I also had a lightbulb moment where I figured out how I was going to attach the rear-bumper "bracketry" to the frame. Pictures of that to follow as it comes together.
Mike
52wasp
Member
More pictures... an image shot thru the access.
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And the part, revamped and plastic welded.
Here is the complete Hoist system, dry fitted. The new hoist has had its top flanges cut off, to suit this application. L-brackets (sitting on crossmember) to be fitted and welded.
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And the part, revamped and plastic welded.
Here is the complete Hoist system, dry fitted. The new hoist has had its top flanges cut off, to suit this application. L-brackets (sitting on crossmember) to be fitted and welded.
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Last edited:
52wasp
Member
Wednesday Progress.
I mocked up the (repop of the original) fuel filler neck (see previous post) and realized it was going to need surgery. I cut the bend out of it on the band saw, and welded the straight portion back on. Took measurements. I did some internet sleuthing, and came up with a Fuel Filler Hose which was long enough, had a 45 degree bend, and was 2" ID at one end and 1-7/8" ID at the other. Perfect for what I needed. I sliced some length off of both ends with the trusty band saw. I then trimmed the (repop) AD fuel filler neck hose down to size, and slid it over the neck. The 1-7/8" end of the new hose fit nicely over it. Then I installed the whole mess, and slipped the 2" end over the spud on the gas tank. Done! I also cut a piece of the repop AD vent hose, and slipped it over the (shortened since the picture was taken) vent tube. I'll need to buy some 3/4" diameter vent hose to connect to the tank.
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I stopped by my local junkyard (5 minutes away) and picked up a 99-07 full-sized-pickup jack and tools. Welded the tabs on the new hoist, and she's done. (tools shown installed for clarity)
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These are two items I have been longing to cross off of the list. I also dropped the 4L60E transmission off at a recommended shop, for upgrades to handle the (estimated) 400 ft/lbs of torque the engine will produce. Stock 4L60E's are rated for 360 ft/lbs. I figured it was safe insurance to upgrade NOW, and not after the tranny puked its guts out in an intersection.
I mocked up the (repop of the original) fuel filler neck (see previous post) and realized it was going to need surgery. I cut the bend out of it on the band saw, and welded the straight portion back on. Took measurements. I did some internet sleuthing, and came up with a Fuel Filler Hose which was long enough, had a 45 degree bend, and was 2" ID at one end and 1-7/8" ID at the other. Perfect for what I needed. I sliced some length off of both ends with the trusty band saw. I then trimmed the (repop) AD fuel filler neck hose down to size, and slid it over the neck. The 1-7/8" end of the new hose fit nicely over it. Then I installed the whole mess, and slipped the 2" end over the spud on the gas tank. Done! I also cut a piece of the repop AD vent hose, and slipped it over the (shortened since the picture was taken) vent tube. I'll need to buy some 3/4" diameter vent hose to connect to the tank.
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I stopped by my local junkyard (5 minutes away) and picked up a 99-07 full-sized-pickup jack and tools. Welded the tabs on the new hoist, and she's done. (tools shown installed for clarity)
.
These are two items I have been longing to cross off of the list. I also dropped the 4L60E transmission off at a recommended shop, for upgrades to handle the (estimated) 400 ft/lbs of torque the engine will produce. Stock 4L60E's are rated for 360 ft/lbs. I figured it was safe insurance to upgrade NOW, and not after the tranny puked its guts out in an intersection.
52wasp
Member
Friday Progress Report
Good Friday afternoon my fellow ADers. With the filler neck and spare tire hoist tasks complete, I turned my attention to the Rear Bumper. As I mentioned in a previous post, I had a "lightbulb moment" where the HOW to attach became clear. First, I positioned the bumper (square) on the workbench. Then, I sketched what the brackets needed to look like- right on the bench. Using 3/16" X 2" flat stock, I fabricated the brackets. I "kerfed" the bend lines with the band saw, to make the bends doable by hand, and it kept the bends crisp. I will weld-in all the kerfs when I blow it all apart for welding.
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. In this picture, you can see the sketch of all of the goings on.
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Next, I assembled the pair of brackets to the bumper, and then the rear bumper "filler panel" over the nuts holding the brackets. This gave me a subassembly to clamp to the rear bed crossmember. Then I cut some 1-1/2" X 3' box-tubing sections, followed by "tabs" of 3/16" X 2" flat stock to attach to the frame, using the 1/2" bolts that hold the hitch. I added a second tab (holes yet to be drilled in frame) for two points of contact. DRIVERS SIDE
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PASSENGER SIDE
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REAR BUMPER, INSTALLED
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A very productive week in the shop. I am pleased with the bumper mounting. I have some "energy absorbing" features, and the bumper is held to the frame with 3, 1/2" Grade 8 bolts at each side. I will have my local machine shop cut the 2-1/4" square hitch-access hole out of the bumper rather than doing it by hand.
Good Friday afternoon my fellow ADers. With the filler neck and spare tire hoist tasks complete, I turned my attention to the Rear Bumper. As I mentioned in a previous post, I had a "lightbulb moment" where the HOW to attach became clear. First, I positioned the bumper (square) on the workbench. Then, I sketched what the brackets needed to look like- right on the bench. Using 3/16" X 2" flat stock, I fabricated the brackets. I "kerfed" the bend lines with the band saw, to make the bends doable by hand, and it kept the bends crisp. I will weld-in all the kerfs when I blow it all apart for welding.
.
. In this picture, you can see the sketch of all of the goings on.
.
Next, I assembled the pair of brackets to the bumper, and then the rear bumper "filler panel" over the nuts holding the brackets. This gave me a subassembly to clamp to the rear bed crossmember. Then I cut some 1-1/2" X 3' box-tubing sections, followed by "tabs" of 3/16" X 2" flat stock to attach to the frame, using the 1/2" bolts that hold the hitch. I added a second tab (holes yet to be drilled in frame) for two points of contact. DRIVERS SIDE
.
.
PASSENGER SIDE
.
.
REAR BUMPER, INSTALLED
.
A very productive week in the shop. I am pleased with the bumper mounting. I have some "energy absorbing" features, and the bumper is held to the frame with 3, 1/2" Grade 8 bolts at each side. I will have my local machine shop cut the 2-1/4" square hitch-access hole out of the bumper rather than doing it by hand.
52wasp
Member
Good Saturday morning!
With the rear bumper mounting squared away, and while waiting for the transmission to be finished up, I turned my attention to the Vent Windows. They came apart with some resistance. One of the vent frames is "stuck" by virtue of some "corrosion" holding things together. The other will need a new stud as a minimum. Looking for options.
I have considered drilling out the rivets to hold the studs, and grinding/cutting some 5/16" bolts to weld in to replace the corroded double-d shafts.
Question: might any of you have a pair of vent window frames (best option)? Or perhaps even just the studs that rivet into the frame (good option)? Or, a pair of complete vent window assemblies?
Thanks,
Mike
With the rear bumper mounting squared away, and while waiting for the transmission to be finished up, I turned my attention to the Vent Windows. They came apart with some resistance. One of the vent frames is "stuck" by virtue of some "corrosion" holding things together. The other will need a new stud as a minimum. Looking for options.
I have considered drilling out the rivets to hold the studs, and grinding/cutting some 5/16" bolts to weld in to replace the corroded double-d shafts.
Question: might any of you have a pair of vent window frames (best option)? Or perhaps even just the studs that rivet into the frame (good option)? Or, a pair of complete vent window assemblies?
Thanks,
Mike