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Great looking work; I can see where this truck is going to be a winner!

Could you stand back away and have the photo show the position on the truck? Here are panel and suburban rear corners and there are no weld nuts anywhere till way up by the lower door hinge.

I KNEW you had a 55.1 but brain was on vacation or fingers were drunk.

Andy, Have done a number of these and your plans are well thought out. IIRC your truck is a 55.2 so the TF bell housing should mate up to your angled cross member. The SM420 input shaft length and spline count is the same as the 235 but can't remember if trans to bell housing bolt pattern is...

Save the factory hinges if possible, the re-pops are never as good. If the pin has wallowed out the hole in the hinge bracket they make bushings to reduce back to factory size. We did not have much luck drilling the hole to the OD of the bushing using a regular drill (bit) as the drill would...

Every old shop used to have a hand held suction gun for this. You sucked out most of the oil and then used shop towels to sop up the remainder.

If your wiper arm has a "J" shape curve on the end you raise arm to maximum height and rotate arm into place (no locks IIRC). If the arm is straight with a small bump at the end you move the tiny tab on the top of the blade slot, slide blade in and release tab. Some of the replacements you can...

Patrick's no longer exists.

I use the plastic one. If a sparrow pees in the same county as your truck the moisture will cause the cardboard to get wavy.

Know what you mean about getting the 5/16 bolt out of the bottom of the divider bar. My pudgy arms look like I refereed a fight between two bobcats by the time the job is done. The last several I have drilled a hole in the very bottom of the door big enough for a 1/2" socket and long extension...

It does on mine. I don't know how to show difference using a computer but here is a before click and after click taken with my camera. Note the after covers most of the screen.

Nate, if you click on the little picture it goes to full size.

Deve, I guess you need a shot of the t/s assembly with the steering wheel removed. I have a 54/55 first column that has t/s and also was an automatic. Buried in my junk somewhere after factory column was replaced with an IDIDIT. Do Have a 55.2 truck with t/s and if you think it's similar I...

No rear pumps since the mid 1960's.

Now for another head scratcher. My 37 Buick has the poor stepchild of GM overdrive automatics, the 2004R, because it would fit in the cramped space of an "X" braced frame and the 700R4 would not. It eats 2nd gear bands. The original factory band, a second factory band, a super tough Kelvar band...

Nate, There is only one band in a 350 and it is applied for engine braking. If no braking it is the band or the servo that activates the band.

Sorry guys. When one doesn't need hardly any work I tend to forget about them picture wise. The only shot I have is after it was sprayed and was being buffed. I'll see if some of the the other guys in the shop have some pics on those fancy phones they all have.

I would use a 57. Not a smart a$$ answer just that most are going the other way so a factory set up should not be hard to find. Check with Joe at Dead Zone or get a Hemmings and look up the antique junkyards.

Have not used a regular seal beam in 40 or more years with zero trouble. If the wattage is the same or close the wires don't know if it's standard bulb, halogen. or a gerbil holding a candle.

I have a 58 down at the storage yard which I MAY be able to look at if no rain next week. Only got 53 inches so far this year. I have a 55.2 in the shop but it has an MII front. I can't remember but many Pitman shafts had a blind spline so the arm only fits one way. If so then it's a no brainer...