327 trouble

[leftyfireguy]

Gentleman,

I know that I do not post often or respond often, but I read all the post often. I am a little lost on my truck and have a question that you guys could maybe give me a little direction.

1st - Took valve covers off to clean up and paint and noticed that I had 4 rocker arms that were off push rod and spring and turned sideways. I had on like that on the passenger side. The bolts that are in the middle of the rocker arms have started to back out on those ones that were sideways and a few others on the passenger side. Those bolts are pressed in. (I guess it explains why it wouldn't run when I tried to start it last) So a couple of questions..... What may have caused this? And what are some thoughts of where to go from here?

This is a truck that I just got from my uncle in Sept and have been trying to get it going so that I can drive it. It has been in the family since the assembly line and now I have inherited it. My uncle had it sitting for awhile. It ran when he parked it and went out and started it and ran it for awhile. But he stopped that just prior to me getting it because of time. Which we all know sitting is no good.

So I was already having to get a new carb because the one on it needed to be fixed. At that point I was going to put a new manifold on it just to beef it up a little. With that I was almost wondering if I am in for a rebuild and not be driving it for awhile? Or just take the heads off and get the bolts taken care of for the rocker arms? But I still want to make sure the problem that caused this is taken care of so I don't waste time and money. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

 

[vwnate1]

Push Rods Popped

This is a really common occurrence on SBC engines .

As long as the push rods are not bent , I'd give a try to re - installing them one cylinder at a time :

Set the cylinder to TDC and back off the rocker nuts , place the push rods , align the rocker then slowly and gently tighten the nut until the push rod has *zero* clearance then give it 1/4 turn more , move on to the next cylinder making sure to put each cylinder to TDC before you fool with the push rods .

This will get you set up to basic running , rain the oil and re fill it with Dino based 10W - whatever , gap the spark plugs to .035" (replace them all if even one has rounded center electrode) , prime the carby and let 'er rip .

Once you have it running and idling O.K. , remove each rocker box one at a time and @ 700 RPM , loosen each rocker nut until you hear it clicking then tighten it slowly and gently until it *just* stops clicking .

If any clatter until it gets so tight it begins to miss , don't panic , just go back and set that valve with the engine off like I mentioned before , then carry on , once one side is done , replace the rocker box and do the other bank , one or two may clatter , if so run it hard and do a few sort (1,500 miles) BLISTERING HOT oil & filter changes using fully synthetic multi-vis oil , this will loosen up and dissolve any gum or crud and often gets the lifters working fine again .

Replacing lifters isn't overly hard , there's a tool you use to fish them out .

Better hold off on the carby until you know what's what in this engine .

 

[leftyfireguy]

Thank you very much for the information! That is very helpful. I am holding off on all the other stuff until I can figure this stuff out. I am hoping that it's not going to be to much and can get her finally driving on the road. But it just takes time and more importantly a little money. But it's still fun. Thank you again for info

 

[vwnate1]

Resurrection

It's a whole lot easier than most think and the CHEVROLET Small Block V-8 Engine (note clever use of CHEVROLET ORANGE there) is specifically designed for easy in service , in chassis repairs .

This means : once you get it running ,you can tune it , peak & tweak it to see what you've got then address specific issues , like a hot compression test (with the throttle propped wide open and you cranking until the tester's needle stops rising) that reveals a couple low cylinders , is a super easy fix ~ remove the cylinder heads and have them properly rebuilt or maybe measure the width of the valve heads then do some research , find out the casting #'s for those big valve stock heads (Fuel Injection I *think*) and go buy a pair , new , used or dead cheap in any junkyard , no matter what anyone tells you , they're everywhere because you never know who did what to that old nasty thing you're taking parts off of , until YOU PERSONALLY check the 's .

Bronze valve guides , stainless steel or (better yet) sodium cooled valves and some basic polishing of the combustion chambers , smoothing up the exhaust ports and ' un shrouding ' the exhaust valves with make any old 327 roar and chirp the tires etc , this just takes time and _labor_ , lots and lots of labor .

Whilst you have the heads off is the perfect time to drop the oil pan and clean out all that old gooey muck , split the rods and replace the rod and main bearing shells , unless it knocked or had a flickering oil pressure light @ hot idle , the crank will be fine , no need to machine it etc.

Also , replacing he decades old timing chain and gears will not only make it quieter but it brings the cam timing back into sharp time , this too gives a serious boost to old average SBC engines .

best of all , YOU can do it , bit by bit in you own driveway or garage and do better work than most mechanics because YOU CARE and to them it's just zanother old Chevy needing work .

Of course , if you're stupid like me rolleyes ay time you're fixing one thing , you take the time to clean and pait or polish whatever parts are off , in due time when you pop the hood on your old low buck truck , folks will say " WOW ! that looks GREAT " and you'll just smile having done it your ownself .

Most nearly stock applications can be tweaked & peeaked to provide great driveability and power along with improved fuel economy .

Notice they guys who have big chromed our 454's with double pumper 850 carbys etc. , don't actually drive them very much because not only do they suck fuel like it's free , they're also never pleasant to drive , just really REALLY good at lighting up the tires fo a 1/2 mile .

That's nice too but me , I Love my Old Chevrolet Light Duty Truck and will never do anything to make it not fun to drive any time , any where , all the time .

Think hard before going all out .

Or , be really goofy and slap in a i6 engine and make folks wonder when you out run the Cops in the twisty bits .

Your 327 is one dang good , solid engine ! if you like it , take the time to sort it out , you'll ove it and the fuel economy won't kill you either.

 

[coilover]

Probably best to tear down and re-do this 327. Sounds as though some of the valve stems have seized in the guides. When a valve can't move only two things can happen; the push rod bends/breaks or the stud pulls out of the head, which yours did.