-
We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.
52 chevy 3100 door hinges
- Thread starter rdh3500
- Start date
Kens 50 PU
Member
rdh, I looked through several of my catalogs and the only one that showed that they have them is bowtie bits. their website is www.bowtiebits.com BTW welcome to the forum.
Kevin's 48
Member
I know this isn't original, but it works and looks really cool. Check out this site. http://www.classictrucks.com/events/0501cl_6th_annual_chevy_gmc_show_shine/ This guy took the hinges from a 2000 model suburban and converted them to door hinges. I just stumbled across it and thought it looked pretty cool.
Warning ! Warning ! Warning !
Be aware these trucks had extremely poor jig work when they were built so don't expect the doors to both look good (gaps & alignment) and close well ~ you'll get one or t'other but rarely both .
Best bet is to tack weld the doors in place _before_ you remove the cab off the chassis , then invert it and repair floors , dash etc. and then once it's done , cut the welds and work the doors as a last item . this helps the cab retain its shape as you're working or welding on it .
The guy in my shop who has a hot rod '49 , has terrible door fittment , esp. the passenger side door as it has a big gap between the 'A' pillar and the leading edge of the door , this is the # 1 most common fault in AD trucks and it will leak if the truck is left out in the rain , his $60,000.00 + show truck obviously never gets wet unless he's washing it but it drives him crazy nontheless ~ he removed the door skins and re-worked the inner door's frame as best he could then re-attached the skins but it's still not as he'd like it .
Anyway , I wish you luck with it , I just adjust for easy opening and closing where no SLAM ! is needed and let the reveal mounding line up where it may , that's how GM did it .
Be aware these trucks had extremely poor jig work when they were built so don't expect the doors to both look good (gaps & alignment) and close well ~ you'll get one or t'other but rarely both .
Best bet is to tack weld the doors in place _before_ you remove the cab off the chassis , then invert it and repair floors , dash etc. and then once it's done , cut the welds and work the doors as a last item . this helps the cab retain its shape as you're working or welding on it .
The guy in my shop who has a hot rod '49 , has terrible door fittment , esp. the passenger side door as it has a big gap between the 'A' pillar and the leading edge of the door , this is the # 1 most common fault in AD trucks and it will leak if the truck is left out in the rain , his $60,000.00 + show truck obviously never gets wet unless he's washing it but it drives him crazy nontheless ~ he removed the door skins and re-worked the inner door's frame as best he could then re-attached the skins but it's still not as he'd like it .
Anyway , I wish you luck with it , I just adjust for easy opening and closing where no SLAM ! is needed and let the reveal mounding line up where it may , that's how GM did it .
Warning ! Warning ! Warning !
Be aware these trucks had extremely poor jig work when they were built so don't expect the doors to both look good (gaps & alignment) and close well ~ you'll get one or t'other but rarely both .
Best bet is to tack weld the doors in place _before_ you remove the cab off the chassis , then invert it and repair floors , dash etc. and then once it's done , cut the welds and work the doors as a last item . this helps the cab retain its shape as you're working or welding on it .
The guy in my shop who has a hot rod '49 , has terrible door fittment , esp. the passenger side door as it has a big gap between the 'A' pillar and the leading edge of the door , this is the # 1 most common fault in AD trucks and it will leak if the truck is left out in the rain , his $60,000.00 + show truck obviously never gets wet unless he's washing it but it drives him crazy nontheless ~ he removed the door skins and re-worked the inner door's frame as best he could then re-attached the skins but it's still not as he'd like it .
Anyway , I wish you luck with it , I just adjust for easy opening and closing where no SLAM ! is needed and let the reveal mounding line up where it may , that's how GM did it .
Be aware these trucks had extremely poor jig work when they were built so don't expect the doors to both look good (gaps & alignment) and close well ~ you'll get one or t'other but rarely both .
Best bet is to tack weld the doors in place _before_ you remove the cab off the chassis , then invert it and repair floors , dash etc. and then once it's done , cut the welds and work the doors as a last item . this helps the cab retain its shape as you're working or welding on it .
The guy in my shop who has a hot rod '49 , has terrible door fittment , esp. the passenger side door as it has a big gap between the 'A' pillar and the leading edge of the door , this is the # 1 most common fault in AD trucks and it will leak if the truck is left out in the rain , his $60,000.00 + show truck obviously never gets wet unless he's washing it but it drives him crazy nontheless ~ he removed the door skins and re-worked the inner door's frame as best he could then re-attached the skins but it's still not as he'd like it .
Anyway , I wish you luck with it , I just adjust for easy opening and closing where no SLAM ! is needed and let the reveal mounding line up where it may , that's how GM did it .