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Hello, My Name is...

Sorry but I can't answer any questions about the welding setup -
I am farming the work out to someone who knows what they're doing.
I finally realized it's the only way this will ever get done...

I plan to do the driveline and electrical myself, but just wasn't up to the body work. :-)
 
RidesWithYah said:
Sorry but I can't answer any questions about the welding setup -
I am farming the work out to someone who knows what they're doing.
I finally realized it's the only way this will ever get done...

I plan to do the driveline and electrical myself, but just wasn't up to the body work. :)
Click to expand...


No worries.... progress is good. Looking forward to reading more as things progress.

_____
John
 
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Some advice, for what it's worth...
I noticed in your pictures, you have replaced the inner cowl panels (kick panels), the outer cowl panels, and, the inner to outer cowl panels.
In my experience, the outer radius of the inner to outer cowl panels, does not match the contour of the front fenders very well. I would sugest that you clamp your fenders up in place and check fender gap. Mine was nowhere near acceptable. I had to cut vertical cuts in the inner/outer panels and spread then as much as 3/16", to get that cool, close fit.
Beaded fender welt, will cover some poor fit, but, I wanted them tight. The original trucks did not use beaded welt. They simply used a flat seal.
Since I realized this poor fit problem, I have looked at many restored AD trucks, at shows. Many of these trucks have beaded welt, and still have very poor gaps.

Thanks for your photo updates. I like to follow your project.

Steve.
 
Thanks Steve. My body guy and I agreed on "factory" gaps, as I'm building a driver and not a show truck.
So as long as the repop panels match the original contours, we'll be in the ballpark.
And they seem to - but I passed along your comments and he will make sure things line up reasonably.
Here's the latest progress... it's starting to look like a cab again!
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As a point of reference for others contemplating similar projects, I'm now about $3500 into the cab.
$300 in paint and supplies,
$800 in metal (patch panels), and
$2400 in labor (~53 hours @ $45/hr).
All numbers are approximate, your experience may vary. :-)
 
Many are not aware how poorly these trucks were originally built, GM sold every one they made almost as soon as it was assembled .

Poor gaps and lousy door fitments with resulting water leaks plagued these when new, GM simply didn't care as it was a seller's market then .

Kudos to those who take the time to make them right .
 
RE : making the body 'right' :

When I was still on duty an old Hot Rodder from the early 1960's liked my '49 and bought one, he took it all the way apart and discarded the frame because he didn't like the Mustang II front suspension it had, bought an original frame (yes, it was bent and sagged on the driver's side like they all do) , began there, adding an AMC Gremlin front suspension and continued from there ~ when he got to the rust free never dented all it's life in Los Angeles cab, he was going bonkers trying to make the passenger's side door line up correctly ~ in time he removed the outer skin and tweaked the cab and door shell so it was *perfect* then re attached the outer door skin ~ several times, never was it perfect so he began hassling the heck out of me to sell him my avatar truck as it was one of the lucky ones that was *perfect* from new, the doors always closed easily and perfectly, no rattles, no leaks .


When his cash offers passed $10,000 I told him to stop hassling me, it was my work truck and that was that .

Point of this long and boring story is : God alone knows how much $ you'll need to spend as each one is different and adding in rusted and collapsed floors to the mix means the cab is often twisted in ways you cannot imagine, the average body & fender man will never be able to make it perfect as it never was .

Just make the doors close well for safety's sake, by some N.O.S. GM latches (I got mine from Mother Trucker here) power, paint and trim it the way you like and call it a day .
 
Thanks for the reminder. Your project is moving along. FORWARD progress is all that matters. Just as soon as I remove the (carpenter's) toolbelt that I wear every spare minute, the FIRST thing I'll do is work on Penny again.
 
Great photo update!!!
It looks like you have good reason to still be working on the cab! It looks like a nice save!
Let’s hear it for work trucks. I am so thankful what I got had next to no rot anywhere. What a time saver that was! Keep on keeping on!
Any idea on color?
 
"Any idea on color?"

No final decision yet, but I'm leaning toward Sun Beige. It's original, but unique (I don't remember ever seeing one IRL).
I thought about Cream Medium, but decided it is too "yellow" for my taste.
Will probably have at least one panel sprayed out before I decide.
1951_1954DitzlerPPG Paint Chips.jpg

If I go with Sun Beige, the interior would be the original Champagne (pic below shamelessly stolen, probably from someone on this site...)
My notes say this version of the paint was purchased from our host.
classic parts champagne interior paint.jpg
 
Not a whole lot new to report. I mentioned in another thread that my body guy said my doors were "less than nothing" -
he could fix them, but I would be money ahead to start with a new set.
Found a pair on Stovebolt for only $200, and they were in Detroit -
since this was on my way home from my summer fishing trip, I grabbed them up.
Dropped them off with the body guy yesterday, and he seemed pleased.

They are late doors (vent windows and push button handles).
He was going to compare them side by side to see if the business end of the latch is the same;
so he could just weld up the "extra" hole for the push button handle and I can install turn downs,
or if I am "upgrading" to the incorrect (gasp!) push buttons on my '51.

With buying the doors I just crossed the $5,000 body mark. Cab patches and labor almost $4k, doors, and a new repo front fender.

Waiting to hear how much work the bed needs; that will follow doors.
Keep at it, y'all.

:)
 
When I did my bed, it was money ahead to buy the bed from MarK rather than sink a bunch of labor into the old ones. Of all the repo parts I've ever bought, the MarK bed parts are as close to orginal as you can get and there's zero problems with fit or quality

x2 on the bear claws. Looking back on it, I should have converted my 49 to later push button doors. The handle ones are a PITA unless your a purist.
 
Thanks for the reminders. Found this on the Trique website, looks like the business ends are different;
and the (custom) Altman latches may be what I need make everything work... Guess I'll call next week.

Q. What is the difference between the 47-51 latch kit compared to the 52-54 latch kit? I have a 49 cab with 52 doors. Which kit should I use?
A. The 47-51 Chevy Trucks have turn-down style exterior door handles.
52-54 uses a push button style exterior handle.
You will need a mix match kit for your application. We can help. Give us a call at 1.866.987.4783 M-F 8-5CST
 
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