• We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.

positive ground vs. negative ground

3/4 gmc 1952

3/4 gmc 1952

Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
117
Reaction score
0
Location
Claremont, NH
I am in need of the combined brain power that has amassed here in this wonderful group. I am very happy to tell you that i have scrapped the idea of putting a 350 in my truck and will be going with the original 228 thanks to Spika and a reasonably priced shipping company. My question is what is the advantage/disadvantage to the gmc positive ground system, can i switch to a negative ground, what would that involve and is it worth it. At the moment there is not a single bit of wiring in my truck so i am starting fresh and would be willing to do it the best way you all can recommend for me. Thank you for all of your advice. And thank you Tom.
 
I agree with Charles...there's not much reason to stay positive ground that I can think of, and it sure simplifies installing any modern electric gadgets if you convert to negative 12 vdc.
Glad that the pile o' parts is heading for a good home...I'm happy to see it getting put back to use. Before it ships out, make sure there aren't any other parts you're short that I might have that could catch a free ride with it...
tjs
 
Positive 2 Negative Ground Conversion

This is a good idea and , there's nothing to it ! .

Simply reverse the battery cables (now's a good time to buy new 0 or 1 gauge battery cables & get the correct long ground cable to reach the tranny) , reverse the leads on the ignition coil and that's it ! .

No need to re wire anything , DO NOT touch the fuel or ammeter gauges ! .

If , on the odd chance it doesn't charge , use a jumper wire whilst the engine is fast idling (700 , 1,000 RPM's) to briefly bridge the battery terminal from the voltage regulator to the 'F' terminal on the generator , don't arc weld , just barely touch it for less than one second so you don't burn anything up / out .

We're here for you , just WAIT 'till you get that freshly re sprayed GMC L O N G MOTOR with SEVEN MAIN BEARINGS installed and roaring sweetly ~ you'll forgive GM Corp. for that FUGLY GMC grille and Motor On happily forevermore.....

Plus , us old Bowtie Guys will be green with envy :D .

You're doing THE RIGHT THING ! .
 
Nate, I knew you would be pleased!! I am actually very excited. Nothing like bringing back the old and making it go. Tom, not sure what else you have but would be willing to use anything you have. I am still sorting through the bucket o parts. I could use a door striker and master cylinder if you have them. It looks like Elky is game for the heater but if not I could use that too. Thanks!!!
Jason
 
Jason ,

I grew up in E. Ringe New Hampshire on a farm , using badly rusted out old pickups that wouldn't pass the safety inspection so we'd be cautious about driving into town or on the highway but , I learned that simply taking things apart & cleaning them , lubricating & re assembling , would keep these old $50 trucks going , and going , and gong and going , and........

Once you have this old rig up and running , you'll see it drives very well indeed and can keep up with traffic etc. , unlike the Chevy Babbit Pounder 216 engine :( .

Stock is the hardest way to go but always the most efficient and longest lasting , most trouble free .

Your young son may or may not like the truck as he gets older but he'll always remember his old man taking him down to The Creamery in August for ice cream , and talking about this & that as you struggled with rusty bolts.....

:)
.
 
Hey Nate, If you ever come back for a visit let me know. I am not too far from Rindge. What color should this long motor be? I think I saw this posted somewhere but I have a hard time with the post search on this board. Also, any recommendations on what to do about the rear end? Being the 3/4 1952 I have not been able to find brake parts at all. My thought was to swap out the whole rear end but would it be possible to just swap the axles to something newer? Is this more of a headache than a solution?
 
Jason,
Are you swapping the ground AND going 12 volt? The G was originally 6 volt and positive ground, so the fuel guage, heater are two things that would need voltage reducers if you are going 12 volt. Also, those dash bulbs might as well be swapped to 12 volt bulbs as well?
I think I've already mention swapping the backend out for a newer, better ratio type. If you ever decide to go to disc brakes, which if you build up that 228 to it's full capacity, you might feel safer with, you will be able to do this.
If you stay 8 lugs, there aren't disc brakes available for the 8 lug front.
Just more good things to think about!
It's Saturday morning~ Grab a cup of coffee, sit back, look at your truck and think about what you want.
 
Hey Zig, I think I will probably go 12 volt since I am starting from scratch. I have been looking at rear ends and had pretty much decided to do a full swap. There are several salvage places nearby with Camaro rear ends available in the $100 range. I wish I was sitting back looking at my truck but am stuck at work. Luckily not a busy day so far so I can at least talk about my truck with all of you fine folk. Thanks for the brain stimulation.
 
Glad to help!

Sounds like we have similar goals. The camero is a popular way to go. I like the 6 lug idea, and that is the only reason I'm looking at Colorado rear ends. Hope your day continues to go slow. You can go through the photos and REALLY get off track! :cool:
 
Very easy to do. My coworkers have started calling my addiction to this board my "truck porn". I guess that might mean I am spending too much time on here but I really enjoy all of the postings and pics. Keep sharing and fueling my slackerness.
 
Engine & Brakes

If should have standard brakes with parts available from the host here or NAPA or Chevs Of The 40s in Wa. State....

I'd be in no hurry to change the rear end until it's dead . Just put narrow & tall 16" tires on it and it'll whiz right on down Rt. 109 just fine ,impress the folks at The Cathedral Of The Pines too .

That romping , stomping 228 GMC l o n g motor *MUST* be GMC Red with the accessories all gloss black .
 
I think a 12 volt negative ground is where you need to be. The last straw, for me, was trying to get the vacuum wipers to work...after several failed parts and attempts I went to the electric wiper set-up. I needed the 12 volt system then, as no voltage jumpers had the amperage needed.

Flashlight
 
I have heard the "add a voltage reducer" all over the place on the net. When I converted my 50 Chevy to 12 volt 12 years ago I had never heard about this reducer information so one never got added. Like I said that was 12 years ago and have never had one problem with my electrical system, maybe I'm just lucky. I don't drive my truck when it gets cold so I don't use the heater but I can see how that would be a good idea to reduce the voltage there, but my gas gauge and ammeter work great. I might be lucky or just haven't had a problem yet because I have only put 3000 miles on my truck in 12 years.
 
G'day, mate-
Schnikie...maybe it would be easier for you list what you've got there, and I'll see what I can fill in!!!
I do have the original master, but if Flashlight is willing to swing you a deal on a new one he's not using, that may be the better route. I seem to recall honing this one probably 15 years ago or more and putting a new kit in, but it would be due for that again. Let me know if you want it. I've got the oils drained from the pan and trans, and it's somewhat strapped to a pallet; will have Joe the Crater finish it up tomorrow. Found the steering column; looks like it's straight from the factory, 'cept for a bit o' grease. That's getting strapped on too. Shipping to the other side of the globe for Elky was pretty steep, so he's in a holding pattern on the heater. I suspect if he bites the bullet to ship from the states, it might as well be a new unit. Freight for you on this otta be pretty much free with the rest, so let me know.
What about the drive shafts? Do the ones you have work ok on this 228?
I'd recommend buying new on the door latch parts...they get worn and don't work so well, and the new ones are pretty reasonable. Most of that type of stuff I replaced with new from our sponsor, as it was all showing some wear after 59 years of use. Damn sure hoping to get a Christmas card from Classic parts...sure took a bunch of stock off their hands! Good bunch of folks...
tjs



3/4 gmc 1952 said:
Nate, I knew you would be pleased!! I am actually very excited. Nothing like bringing back the old and making it go. Tom, not sure what else you have but would be willing to use anything you have. I am still sorting through the bucket o parts. I could use a door striker and master cylinder if you have them. It looks like Elky is game for the heater but if not I could use that too. Thanks!!!
Jason
Click to expand...
 
Hey Tom, I have the original drive shafts from mine so think I am good with those but would love to have the heater, as long as Elky is going to pass. Not trying to steal anybodies parts. I may get to putting it in some day! I do have a lot of work ahead but you are certainly making life a lot easier. Very happy to hear about the steering column. Thank you to you and your guys for putting in the work to pack this all up for me. I will be sure to post lots of pictures and maybe a video or two of that ol 228 purrrrring. I think I may end up doing the Trique latches when I get there. Certainly won't need them before the snow so I have time to tuck away in the MDK fund (momma don't know)!
 
Heater travel

spika said:
G'day, mate-
Schnikie...maybe it would be easier for you list what you've got there, and I'll see what I can fill in!!!
I do have the original master, but if Flashlight is willing to swing you a deal on a new one he's not using, that may be the better route. I seem to recall honing this one probably 15 years ago or more and putting a new kit in, but it would be due for that again. Let me know if you want it. I've got the oils drained from the pan and trans, and it's somewhat strapped to a pallet; will have Joe the Crater finish it up tomorrow. Found the steering column; looks like it's straight from the factory, 'cept for a bit o' grease. That's getting strapped on too. Shipping to the other side of the globe for Elky was pretty steep, so he's in a holding pattern on the heater. I suspect if he bites the bullet to ship from the states, it might as well be a new unit. Freight for you on this otta be pretty much free with the rest, so let me know.
What about the drive shafts? Do the ones you have work ok on this 228?
I'd recommend buying new on the door latch parts...they get worn and don't work so well, and the new ones are pretty reasonable. Most of that type of stuff I replaced with new from our sponsor, as it was all showing some wear after 59 years of use. Damn sure hoping to get a Christmas card from Classic parts...sure took a bunch of stock off their hands! Good bunch of folks...
tjs
Click to expand...

Hey Tom, just read, that someone else is in need of this heater unit of yours.
Let him have it, as he´s buying a lot of other stuff off you and this way, he can save on shipping cost, and i am not in a desperate need of it right now.
I don´t want you, to loose a deal, because you had to wait for my decision.
By the time, i get to the interior, there will be something around, might as well go for a new unit, the freight doesn´t make a difference there.
Thank you anyway, for your effort and keep on truckin´;)
 
Elky, that is very kind of you. I will put it to good use! I will also keep an eye out for deals for a new one for you. Thanks
 
Thanks, Elky...I would hope you could find a better solution that didn't set you back so far in freight. Jason, I'll see that it gets packed up with the rest-
tjs
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top