Radiator 216 vs 235

[Kens53chevypu]

I bought a standard capacity radiator from CD a year ago, I had it painted the same color as my truck. I put the front end together and put my radiator in to find out that it hit my fan blade on the way down. I searched for articles in CD truck forum to help me address my problem.

I called Patrick today and he told me the radiator that CD sold me is for a 216 engine and that I need to move the straps around the core so that the bottom strap is flush with the inside of the radiator mount.

You old timers probably knew this, but us beginners are clueless!

Does anyone know if CD knows that there are two different radiators? US Radiators makes them!

Does anyone know how involved it is to remove the straps. If they are welded on, how do I get them off so it doesn't look like a hack job?

Thanks
Ken

 

[coilover]

Even a bandit radiator shop shouldn't charge over $20 to move your straps. If you do them yourself a small propane torch will work. They are soldered just where the top of the strap fits on the curved sides of the top tank. Heat until solder drips from under the strap and pull away from tank. For no more than you'll be moving them you probably won't even have to re-tin the surfaces. Usually there are several 1/2 inch holes at the top of the strap. Hold the strap firmly against the tank and heat until solder held against the tank top through one of the holes just sucks under the strap--STOP. The tendency is to overheat and this will let the solder run right back out. If you have someone there to quench the area just after it melts it helps. Solid wire with paste works best but acid core will do.

 

[vwnate1]

Actually this is a red herring ~ the SAME radiator is used on 216 , 235 , 261 _AND_ V-ate conversions with NO mods needed ! you only need replace the fan as it's in a different location on the 235 .

For optimal cooling , delete the fan altogeth and add a pusher electric fan in front of the radiator where it'll be out of sight , add a relay and fan temp switch and wire it live so it'll cool off after you shut off the engne and prevent heat soaking on hot summer days .

Some folks who don't understand how it all works will tell you pusher fans are not effective ~ tell that to Mercedes , they've been using them on thier high output engines for over 20 years with NO troubles whatsoever .

I run a pusher fan on my work truck with a 235 , it works perfectly in
the Mojave desert and trips through Death Valley fully loaded up .

-Nate

 

[Kens53chevypu]

Again Thanks for the suggestions!

This email was really directed to CD for venting purposes and as a suggestion for them to consider contacting US radiator and have them make a 235 radiator for CD to sell on their great website!

I had already had this discussion earlier with Nate. I've already decided to order a 16" 2700 CFM fan from RB's. 1st I need the time to take out the crossbars from the radiator support panel. Then I'll be ready to put in the new fan!

Thanks Again
Ken

 

[vwnate1]

RE:U.S. Radiator

FWIW ; U.S. Radiator _does_ make a great three row radiator for our trucks it is the correct one for 235 engine but the comapny was taken over (?inherited?) by some jerkoff kids who are rapidly ailenating all their customers so I'd go buy one ASAP before they run it into the ground and close , then you'll be stuck with Chinese crap repops .

BTW : do NOT get all clever and install a four row core ~ I did this and had the devil of a time getting 1/4" clearance between the water pump hub and radiator .

(it coold really nice though)

-Nate