Removing gauges for painting

[Just Learning]

Hey gang,
I am about ready to get the cab painted in my truck, and want to detach the gauge set to move it back for better painting.

Any advice on how its hooked up, and once I detach it, do I lose any grounding for operating the truck?

Silly question, I know. But I still plan to drive it a couple miles to the painters.

Any thoughts?
Eric

 

[coilover]

Eric, if you have to drive the truck to the painters you can remove the speedometer but it would be better to push the instrument cluster back out of the dash and wrap it up so it doesn't get overspray on it. The reason is both the oil pressure line and the temp guage capillary tube and bulb need to be in place to drive it or you'll have oil and antifreeze everywhere. You can plug both at the engine but both take fittings that most parts stores don't have. If you do push them back make sure the terminals do not get grounded. The amp guage is direct from the battery and can really light things up. DO NOT cut the tiny tube to the temp guage--this is very expensive. Just three # 10 nuts on ears on the back hold them in(3/8 socket or nutdriver). Good luck

 

[mikesters1950]

I agree with coilover. I might even go as far as to drive it to the painters, unhook the battery, then remove the guages and push them back into the dash. It may be a great time to refresh them if needed. Just keep in mind, like coilover said, the amp guage wires are hot to the battery, and will cause a huge problem if shorted to the body. Good luck, and post some pictures after it gets painted.....Mike

 

[Bossman]

The caution about the oil pressure gauge is correct because the tube does contain oil from the engine and if left open you will get oil pumped into the cab if you cut that line. The worry about antifreeze from the temp line is not correct. The temp sensor is a sealed unit where the bimetallic sensor is actually built into the meter movement. You can't remove the sensor from the meter unit. If you try you will destroy the temp sensor assembly. Don't kink the line but coil it gently in a large coil if you have to disturb it. You won't get any antifreeze leaking unless you disconnect it from the block and don't plug the hole in the block. It is OK to remove the sensor from the block if you are removing the gauges but be careful feeding the sensor assembly through the firewall feedthru so you don't break it. Since the sensor taps into the block at a point lower than the top of the radiator, you can expect antifreeze to run out when you remove the sensor, so be prepared to install a plug quickly unless you have already drained the block. Later model engines used an electric sensor for temp that had wires going to the meter instead of the bimetallic unit.
As someone already said, be careful pushing the gauges back into the dash because the ammeter is connected to the battery and the terminals on the back could contact metal behind the dash and create a nasty short. Make sure you wrap the back with something insulating if you intend to leave the units hooked up. If you take the gauges out, use masking tape to label all the terminal wires for the ammeter and fuel gauge so you can hook them back up. There are no clear indications on the gauges of what wires go where. You also need to be careful removing the gauge lamps so you don't break the bulbs while prying them loose.

 

[federale]

The capillary tube for the temp gauge does have some fluid in it,don't remember exactly what it is. Its just very expensive to replace it if broken.

 

[coilover]

Bossman is right, there is no antifreeze in the capillary tube. The old mechanical guages used a Bourdon tube, the little banana shaped brass thingy with a link to the indicator needle. The luid pressure in the capillary tube caused it to curl or uncurl and that moves the needle.

 

[vwnate1]

RE: Temp Gauge Tube

IIRC , the Bourden Tube is filled with _Ether_ and it's very delicate so never kink it nor should you ever try to test it by putting a -flame- to the bulb .

-Nate