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S10 frame swap

Chiro

Chiro

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A New York Yankee living in Virginia
I'm entertaining the idea of doing an S10 frame swap on my '55 first series truck.

Anybody have any idea what kind of price I could get for my complete rolling frame with good running engine (235), SM420 4 speed and torque tube rear (3.90:1)?
Frame has been completely gone over and painted with chassis saver coating (similiar to POR-15), entire brake system has been rebuilt, etc. and so on. I drive this truck every day and it runs out just fine.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

andy
 
You would do better to stay with your stock frame and do IFS/ open rear swap. there is actually a lot more fab work than many people realize with the s10 swap, though the s10 has become THE chassis swap for numerous hot rods.
 
Chiro said:
I'm entertaining the idea of doing an S10 frame swap on my '55 first series truck.

Anybody have any idea what kind of price I could get for my complete rolling frame with good running engine (235), SM420 4 speed and torque tube rear (3.90:1)?
Frame has been completely gone over and painted with chassis saver coating (similiar to POR-15), entire brake system has been rebuilt, etc. and so on. I drive this truck every day and it runs out just fine.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

andy
Click to expand...

Andy, may only be worth a couple of hundred bucks. I know that is steep, but I would offer that to you. Hell, I'll give ya $300. And I would even come pick it up! :D
 
I wonder

Andy,
Maybe you can find a decent LWB regular cab S10 your kids can drive to school a couple of years while you think about the frame swap.

I agree with Old Chebby that there other good options. Maybe build a second AD on the S10 and the whole crew can parade around the island?

you can look at these trucks as investments in a very slow market.

enjoy
Jim
 
I did the S10 frame swap and believe me it was a lot of work to get it "just right". It's also not a quick and easy swap. I see lots of "projects" slapped together for sale on CL, and many say. "almost done", or "easy to finish" but most are far from it.

While I love the way mine turned out, if I were to build another one I'd do the MII cross member on the stock frame then I'd use a aftermarket rear leaf spring kit to install a Camaro rear and be all done with the chassis in a weekend.

Also when you keep the original frame you don't have to figure out how to mount the cab, front fenders, radiator core support, front bumper, running boards, bed, or rear bumper. Then there's things like which gas tank to use with the S10 frame, which radiator to use and how to get it to clear S10 steering box, exhaust routing, and so on. With the S10 frame swap it'll help if you also have some design, fabrication and welding skills.

Whichever way you go, you should have fun. If your not having fun, you have the wrong hobby.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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WOW!!! I've been sweating this step. I'm still at the beginning of my little adventure and this is a very important step for me and I've been thinking a lot about it. I'm keeping the original frame without question. However, I do have a couple of questions for the smarty pants' of the board.

- why the Camaro rear end? I'm Issuming due to the fit?

- why the Mustang II front end? I think someone told me they are pretty universal or somehting?

- lastly, I'd like to put cruise control on my truck bc I live in a very small town which is quite a trek from the next large city and when I go to "show off" my finished product, I'd like to set the cruise control for the long, straight KS highways. Is there a product out there which is a "retro-looking" cruise control thing that sticks out of the steering column that's not as darned ugly and modern looking as on newer GMs?

Hopefully, I'm not the only person who had these questions... I'm done for now!
 
Camaros are a popular swap, a Colorado is 6 lug if you want to keep the stock wheels, also a 95 Impala SS rear is a good fit, with disc brakes. I used to run a 90 Town car rear in mine, with discs also. The m2 front ends are mustang only in geometry ( based on the mustang 2 measurements) There is little to nothing mmustang in most kits. They are made to fit the width of your truck. Select the rear end first, then tell them what bolt pattern you want when you order the front end.
 
Then there's this~

Was at a car show today in my little berg. I'd seen this trucks progress and now it's even closer. This guy did everything himself except the final paint, but he is obviously quite the talented welder, as well. He chopped the top, created the front tilt clip, created the bedsides out of ten gauge metal and pipe for the rolled over part. Made the bed lift from scratch... All this sits on a camero front clip welded to a ... are you ready? '55 Chevy frame. The ride height is what you see. No notching needed. Ford 9" with all chevy parts inside. 454 engine bored 30 over because it had a piston problem. It's a bad little truck! Seats are out of a 2000 Chevy truck with seat belts in the seat! Neat idea! (It's got me thinking...) :rolleyes:
Anyway, Andy, if your good with a welder~~~ Just an idea.
 

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Hot Rodding

As much as I prefer stock(ish) , I like to see well done modifications too and this young Man has obviously been working very diligently indeed ! . kudos .
 
Zig said:
Was at a car show today in my little berg. I'd seen this trucks progress and now it's even closer. This guy did everything himself except the final paint, but he is obviously quite the talented welder, as well. He chopped the top, created the front tilt clip, created the bedsides out of ten gauge metal and pipe for the rolled over part. Made the bed lift from scratch... All this sits on a camero front clip welded to a ... are you ready? '55 Chevy frame. The ride height is what you see. No notching needed. Ford 9" with all chevy parts inside. 454 engine bored 30 over because it had a piston problem. It's a bad little truck! Seats are out of a 2000 Chevy truck with seat belts in the seat! Neat idea! (It's got me thinking...) :rolleyes:
Anyway, Andy, if your good with a welder~~~ Just an idea.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the article on my truck. I hope others are using some of my ideas to get there's on the road. Getting ready to start a new project. My wife is seeing parts coming in on a s-10(not happy), but that's what i like doing...
 
the whole S10 swap thing...

As one who is DEEP into an S10 frame-swap, I can tell you it is NOT a bolt-on-and-go proposition. BUT, in my case, my AD frame was toast, my 216 was junk, and honestly I wasn't interested in a "stock" AD truck. There are plenty of beautifully restored AD's out there to enjoy (thanks guys), but my truck has no provenance, wasn't my grandfathers, none of that.

Want a project? Want to do things the way YOU want? (I think the term is Hot Rod) Maybe, just maybe, an S10 frame swap is what you want.

BUT, if the thought of spending 6 hours measuring, cutting, measuring some more, and then welding (tape measure in hand) JUST to get the receiver tied to the frame perfectly so you can tow with your truck interests you... maybe you are as crazy as I am.

Want it done while you still have your sanity? stock frame.

With a stock frame, you can do things in stages, maybe during the winter. With an S10 swap... no driving til done.

My stock frame is beside the barn. I refer to it often. With a tape measure. No regrets.
 
Andy,
An S10 swap for a first timer is quite an undertaking and not a weekend project. If you do decide to go with it let me know and I can send you step by step pictures with tips and piccadillos to watch out for. With advance notice where every part needed is set out we can start with a complete AD and a complete S10 and have the AD cab, box, front clip, and steering mounted on the S10 frame in one day. Most opt for the frame to be blasted, painted, the cut off S10 brackets/mounts ground smooth, running boards mounted, and the Colorado/Canyon rear (6 lugs) or Explorer (5 lugs). The Explorer 8.8 is the right width and in the yards by the hundreds while the Camaro/Firebird is getting harder and pricier. We re-drill the 4.5 bolt pattern on the Explorer or the 4.75 pattern on the S10 front so they match. Even with all this done by us a customer finishing up the electrical, fuel tank mounting, brakes, radiator relocation, engine and trans install, shift linkage, fuel and brake lines, etc., is facing a couple months (for them) before it's ready for a trip to the local drive-in.
 
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