• We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.

Why won't my 1954 Chevy 3100 starter turn over...

N

Nostalgia

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Simi Valley, CA
Good Evening Fellas...

I'm having the darndest time figuring out why I can't get my "new" old truck's starter to even engage. I've got power to it...but I'm pretty sure the loose red wire in the picture coming out of the firewall needs to be connected. It's the wire that comes from the ignition. I've Googled some pictures that show it connected in different ways and I've tried them but to no evail. I have the red wire connected to the "start" side of the ingition...again, not sure what's not right, but I know it's probably something self evident to the more experienced than I on this forum.

I'm stumped, so any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!

Regards,

Greg
 

Attachments

  • Authors Fair 167.jpg
    Authors Fair 167.jpg
    123 KB · Views: 8,402
  • Authors Fair 166.jpg
    Authors Fair 166.jpg
    82.2 KB · Views: 4,407
Welcome aboard Greg, enjoy the ride while here.
Without being there for me it is hard to tell what your truck is doing. Are the wires still connected to at the key switch?
By the way where is Simi Are you?
 
Wiring diagram 1954 chevy.

Not easy to tell by the eye what is what and goes to where ?
The Old online chevy manuals have wiring diagrams . Find your truck year and use the diagram to find your problem.
Checking out this first is a must before you check in to any starter problems. A couple of weeks a go there have been posted different threads about starter/wiring issues.Look it up by search in this forum 47-55 !

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

Martinius.
 
Last edited:
Your starter needs NO wire to engage, just the battery cable. Run a ground straight from the battery to the starter and make sure the positive cable on the terminal post has voltage. If the battery, cables, and starter are all good it WILL turn over. Now for it to run the engine and have all the lights and accessories work it will need a main feed wire, usually 12 gauge, that goes on the same terminal on the starter as the positive battery cable and many times runs up to the amp gauge. The wire to the light switch, ignition switch, etc., then run from the amp gauge to their destination. This lets any draw on the system register on the amp gauge. Your starter will work clamped in a vice with just a battery hooked to it and if it doesn't the switch (button on top of the starter the lever mashes down) or the starter itself is bad. Being NOS means it's sat on a shelf for many years so I'd pop the band off the case and check out the comutator, the copper bars the brushes rub on, for oxidation. A piece of fine crocus cloth held against the comutator while you turn the armature by hand will deglaze it.
 
Evan is right, but may have left out an important clue.

You said this truck is new to you. I don't know how to say this delicately, but the starter is engaged by pressing on the funny looking round pedal to the right of the gas pedal, not by turning the key. Key must be on for the engine to fire and run, but the starter will turn the engine with the key in your pocket.
 
Thanks everybody!

coilover said:
Your starter needs NO wire to engage, just the battery cable. Run a ground straight from the battery to the starter and make sure the positive cable on the terminal post has voltage. If the battery, cables, and starter are all good it WILL turn over. Now for it to run the engine and have all the lights and accessories work it will need a main feed wire, usually 12 gauge, that goes on the same terminal on the starter as the positive battery cable and many times runs up to the amp gauge. The wire to the light switch, ignition switch, etc., then run from the amp gauge to their destination. This lets any draw on the system register on the amp gauge. Your starter will work clamped in a vice with just a battery hooked to it and if it doesn't the switch (button on top of the starter the lever mashes down) or the starter itself is bad. Being NOS means it's sat on a shelf for many years so I'd pop the band off the case and check out the comutator, the copper bars the brushes rub on, for oxidation. A piece of fine crocus cloth held against the comutator while you turn the armature by hand will deglaze it.
Click to expand...

I tried your suggestion over the weekend, but still nothing. My battery cables were getting warm however. I tried cleaning the contact surfaces, but they still got warm. To find a short I'm going to try disconnecting the negative cable from the battery to check for shorts using my light tester stuck in the middle of the negative post while its clipped to the loose cable and start disconnecting systems until the light turns off.
 
Just a thought... Have you tried just physically mashing the silver button right by where the battery cable bolts to the starter and see if it turns over? Another idea is to hook up a volt meter between ground and the cable connection at the starter and observe the voltage when the above mentioned button is mashed. If the voltage goes to 8 or less, you have either a battery problem or a cable/connection issue. I hope this makes sense, as it's sometimes hard to decipher my instructions... As Evan, (Coilover) mentioned, the starter may have been setting on a shelf for a long time, so You might consider removing it and bench testing it just to prove the starter is good before chasing a possible 'wild goose', Bill
 
Last edited:
Battery cables getting warm!

Uninstall starter . Use a 12 v. battery and connect to starter to + pole and - , just a few seconds .Not the most elegant way to start it but if it still wont turn over your starter is toast. If it turns over the problem is in your wiring/cable connection some where, i would check the fuzes aswell ?

Nostalgia said:
I tried your suggestion over the weekend, but still nothing. My battery cables were getting warm however. I tried cleaning the contact surfaces, but they still got warm. To find a short I'm going to try disconnecting the negative cable from the battery to check for shorts using my light tester stuck in the middle of the negative post while its clipped to the loose cable and start disconnecting systems until the light turns off.
Click to expand...
 
coilover said:
Your starter needs NO wire to engage, just the battery cable. Run a ground straight from the battery to the starter and make sure the positive cable on the terminal post has voltage. If the battery, cables, and starter are all good it WILL turn over. Now for it to run the engine and have all the lights and accessories work it will need a main feed wire, usually 12 gauge, that goes on the same terminal on the starter as the positive battery cable and many times runs up to the amp gauge. The wire to the light switch, ignition switch, etc., then run from the amp gauge to their destination. This lets any draw on the system register on the amp gauge. Your starter will work clamped in a vice with just a battery hooked to it and if it doesn't the switch (button on top of the starter the lever mashes down) or the starter itself is bad. Being NOS means it's sat on a shelf for many years so I'd pop the band off the case and check out the comutator, the copper bars the brushes rub on, for oxidation. A piece of fine crocus cloth held against the comutator while you turn the armature by hand will deglaze it.
Click to expand...
 
I have a new starter in my 54 truck and I have power to the starter but it will not spin? Can the starter bind up, I will try loosen the mounting bolts but am I going in the right direction?
 
Turn on the headlights. Did they come on? If so, have someone watch them. Mash the stomp starter. Do the headlights dim?
 
Bill Hanlon said:
Turn on the headlights. Did they come on? If so, have someone watch them. Mash the stomp starter. Do the headlights dim?
Click to expand...
A floor starter and voltage meter shows 12+ bolts but not spinning, turning just nothing.
 
I'd remove the starter and bench test it, if it doesn't draw current the brushes are the first thing to look at .

Don't be in any hurry to have it overhauled or "rebuilt" as they're dead simple and easy to bring back to life in all but the most extreme cases .

TEST then take it apart and DO NOT LET GO OF IT ('core') until the job is finished to your personal satisfaction ! .
 
Please try my test above with the headlights on, but first make sure both ends of both battery cables are clean and tight.

The reason I'm asking is that if the headlights stay on either the stomp switch is bad or the starter motor is totally open (not likely).

If the headlights go out or almost all the way out the stomp switch is good and the starter motor is most likely bad.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top