I have a 65 camper. Possibly need new fuel pump according to "mechanic". I'm mechanically inclined just need a little guidance to get the sucker off. Thanks for any info.
If you have an original small block V8 engine, the best tip I can offer is to remove the upper bolt on the front of the engine that was originally designed for the 1955 front motor mounts. Here?s a shot of what I?m talking about: Install a longer bolt, but only pull it up hand tight, as it will bump into the push rod running between the fuel pump lever and the camshaft. This will hold the push rod up, while you remove and replace the pump. Once the new pump is in place, remove the long bolt holding the push rod up, and replace it with the original. If the push rod is not held out of the way, it will slide down and cause fits to try and get it back in place. Also, this will only work with original engines. New crate motors no longer have this hole drilled and tapped all the way through.
To remove the pump take out the two 3/8 bolts, one on each side. Do not take out the 1/4 bolts as these hold the fuel pump mount plate and only need removing if replacing the push rod. The original factory bolts were Fairy Head bolts (but not gay) which means the head is the same size as the threads, in this case 3/8. Most have been replaced with regular 3/8 bolts which take a 9/16 socket/wrench. Do not take out the ones a 7/16 socket/wrench fits.
I believe those are "Ferry" Cap Screws.... but I enjoyed your written words better. http://www.fastenal.com/catalog_pages/2013/01-25.pdf Maybe we should call them "transgender" Cap Screws? ___________ John
Fuel Pump Push Rod Whatever you do , BE WARY of holding that flusherginner push rod up by finger ! . A guy at work managed to get his finger up and behind the push rod and it slid down and trapped him draped over the fender , we had to call the FIRE DEPARTMENT to get him loose again , they laughed and said ' we've seen this before ' ~ he wasn't happy and was very sore by the end of his ordeal .
