Using octane selector achieves the same result as turning the body I just suggested Turning the body because it give greater range of adjustment and the thought that he's a bit off. Either will work
Seeing is believing, eh? I told Bill over and over that the wires were fine! Wellll.... It turns out my dyslexia got the better of me when I wrote the firing order down, It seems I had the #4 and #2 switched. (He's not letting me off the hook~) If only I could have blamed everything on Ken's50's air cleaner being clogged!
Reference Like someone else said above. It does t matter where 1 ends up on distributor, as long as your rotor is under 1 on compression stroke Some like 6 o'clock. Some like 12 Only restriction is grease cup
YaBut ... This occurred (or at least was found) when the cap was also on 180 degrees out so fixing the two crossed wires had no effect on the way the engine (didn't) run at the time.
Dam Zig, Tubby's is set up like yours with #1 away from the engine block. Maybe MINE is backwards!!! No matter where #1 is if the timing light (or static timing done with the engine off) hits the ball and the order going clockwise is 153624.
I was going to say, "Move everything one spot clockwise on the dizzy and you have my set up." Upon further review, that #1 on your distributor is turned counterclockwise from where mine is. My #1 is straight down from the top. I say this because when I had done the "timing not running" procedure, the timing mark always had the rotor pointing straight up at the block. When I rotated the cap 180 degrees, #1 is straight down. As you can see from your photo, if this was my cap, I would have advanced the dizzy a bit counterclockwise. (also, mine has no grease cup.)
Must be low on oil Tubby. None running down the side of the engine. By the way, Zig timed his distributor using the "not running" method from the Maintenance Manual. He did NOT us a timing light. Might not be perfect, but should be close enough to run a lot better than it is.
Yours runs! I'm pretty good remembering numbers~ These are guaranteed to be stuck in my brain forever. (soon)
Thank you so much~ I may not have this thing in the show on the 4th, but without your help and ideas, it would never leave my garage without being towed. I can't tell you how much I appreciate everything you are putting into this~ most importantly, your time. Someday I will drive this out of my garage and you better believe I won't take the credit for that! (The killer paint job? sure, but having it running? Not without your help!) Thanks!!!
Tests to be done before Zig and I get back together tomorrow include: Fuel pressure when approaching the engine speed where the engine starts to falter. Fuel pressure was previously tested at 2.5 PSI at idle, but no checks at the failure point. While at idle, pull #1 spark plug wire. Does the idle speed go down (expected), stay the same (this cylinder is not contributing to the workload) or go up (only way this should happen is if two or more plug wires are crossed)? Put #1 plug wire back on, and do the same for #2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. After #1 shocked you when you pulled it off, use insulated pliers to do the rest. Think about borrowing the timing light from FLAPS. A "dial back" timing light (like Tubby was explaining) will probably be best for you. If you are going to adjust timing the GMC manual says to reduce engine idle speed to 350 RPM before you start because centrifugal advance starts at 400 RPM in our engines. Even though the Maintenance Manual does not mention removing and blocking the vacuum advance line (because the stock Zenith carb supplies ported vacuum) I'd remove and block yours because you have a non-stock carb of questionable parentage.
Sounds like a plan, Bill! I think you gave me this list of things to do just so you can sleep in, however. I'll get it done and give you a holler when I have some info to pass along! Thanks again for all your time and help!
Guess how much I've gotten done on that list of things to do? Not a dang thing!!! Pest control guy was supposed to show up and been messing around with Cox Cable trying to get them to release our old phone number and various other things... Arrrrrrggggghhhhh!!! Well, now to see what I can accomplish!
It looks like I'll be a day or two before I get back to my truck~ Autozone didn't have the kind of light I needed for rent, only for sale. That wasn't in the budget, but as soon as it is, I will get one just because.
While the coals were getting ready for me to put my bacon bombs on, I just had to fire up the 228. It did~ I noticed that with the choke all the way in, and the idea you aren't going to be able to time it if the RPMs are up, I thought I'd check the throttle screw. It was turned to far in, keeping the RPMs up. I ran it back out and checked the works, then realized I had to run it back in just a tad, but the idle, with the choke all the way in, was much slower. Next, I pulled the plug wires one at a time and heard the RPMs drop when the wire left, then picked back up when I reapplied it. all the way across. Tomorrow I will check the fuel pressure first, and then check timing. Happy 4th!
I lied~ I went straight for timing. I saw that beloved threaded hole again, but this time I saw it for what it really was. I kept slowly cranking the dizzy and what did I see? That nice, shiny, steel ball! (Wow, was it way off where it needed to be!) Then I saw the letters with the line between, and that is where my distributor is now set. So by now, my exhaust manifold is way to hot to disconnect the fuel filter and do a fuel pump test, so I put the vacuum test back on it. It is better than it has been by about 1/2". At idle it was reading 16 to 17", and on increased idle, made it up to 19". When I revved it, it went all the way up into the "I love it" area. Still has that random missing thing, but not nearly as pronounced. BTW, I have not done anything to the manual advancement. It is still at zero between advance and retard.
