ol' chebby
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- Charlotte,NC
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- www.rpettycustommurals.com
The AC filter is yellow and black, the yellow matches the yellow in the sticker.
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The AC filter is yellow and black, the yellow matches the yellow in the sticker.
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The AC filter is yellow and black, the yellow matches the yellow in the sticker.
Bill Hisch paint is made after original chevy paint codes. Where did you get the information that it is not the correct color .... just wonder ?
I`ll suggest that you could make a phonecall to Hirsch and ask them . There service is the best and i am shore they will give you a direct answer to confirm . Look here Aerosol is mentioned after epokes and each color have there own spes. number wich corresponds with chevrolet paint codes.
http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EEA-SPRAY
The blue/ orange was usually Fram......
So here are the pics of the actual filter and all of the parts that I have for it. A couple of questions:
1. The stem coming up in the middle of the filter only appears to have one small pin hole. Is that is all there is supposed to be? It doesn't seem like that's big enough to push the oil through.
Yes. Beware that your filter needs more often inspection then a regular modern filter as the oil is only sucked up and transported through , very simple fysics.The pinhole can be easely closed by particles or clothed oil. Its good to start with fresh oil when starting up your engine including this fllter. Climate and usage of your truck every day tells you what kinda oil SAE grade you should use. SAE 10-30 or 15-40 multigrade, halv synthetic or fully synthetic W 20-50 is average in use ? Me myself i use halv synthetic oil SAE 20-50 as it is not that hard in cleaning the engine inside to much ! As these old 50 tees engines are used to work best on low octane petrol gas with lead added a lead substitute is recommended if the low petrol gas (lead gas) is not availeble at your local gas station. The valves of these engines last much longer and valve ticking will be less . Usage 10 ml to 10 ltr of fuel. The contents of the substitute = Petroleum destilator 60 % ; Kerosin 7% and kalium Alkylnate 10%.
2. The hole coming in on the side is stamped "INLET" so it is pretty clear which hose goes where. The thing I am confused on is on the underside of the lid there is no gasket or anything to keep the oil from flowing out the top once the top nut is screwed down. Is there supposed to be some sort of gasket that goes on the underside of the lid? If so, where can I find that gasket?
There should be a rubber O ring in the lock.
3. The screw that goes into the top of the lid and screws into the stem. Does that need a gasket as well? It would seem so to prevent leakage. If so, does anyone know where I can get that gasket?
Yes , o-ring here to.
4. I have the spring which I assume goes into the bottom of the filter. Does the filter just sit on top of that? Also does anyone know which filter it is that I need based on the outside measurement of the canister?
Yes , filter is availeble from our host ,just give them the inside measurement. The AC filter has another measurement then the Fram filter. Just look it up on there site.
5. And finally, is there anything else I need to buy (other than stickers, paint, brackets to mount it to the manifold, and the hoses) in order to complete the assembly? Just want to see if there are anymore parts I need to buy.
No useally everything comes together with the brass fittings in the kit. Ask our host and they know what you need for the AC filter. Sending them a photo would help! Elsewhere complete kits are availeble at EBAY to.
After all the discussion I think I am going to go to the black/yellow combination. Thanks for everyone's feedback. Any answers to the above questions would also be greatly appreciated.