Kens 50 PU
Member
Lewis, go to your local NAPA parts store and ask for a NAPA 1100 element or a WIX 51100 element. Should fit perfectly.
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Cannister Oil Filter Hookup
- Thread starter GLRnTX
- Start date
Lewis, go to your local NAPA parts store and ask for a NAPA 1100 element or a WIX 51100 element. Should fit perfectly.
GLRnTX
Member
Ken is right. The NAPA part number is 1100 and the cost is $12.39. This is the one that fits my canister.
Take the top off yours and measure the inside diameter to be sure.
Greg
Take the top off yours and measure the inside diameter to be sure.
Greg
Blueflame236
Member
Cannister oil filter hookup?
Hey Greg
Just went through the same prosedure and used the old car manual pics.It ends up very well.But beware of one litle detail that is the tiny hole in the sentertube inside the cannister, it has to be open for oil bypass.At the same time the rubber ring inside the cover has to be smooth and in good shape.If you put it in some fresh oil or silicone liquid that will do the job.
Good luck Martinius.
Hey Greg
Just went through the same prosedure and used the old car manual pics.It ends up very well.But beware of one litle detail that is the tiny hole in the sentertube inside the cannister, it has to be open for oil bypass.At the same time the rubber ring inside the cover has to be smooth and in good shape.If you put it in some fresh oil or silicone liquid that will do the job.
Good luck Martinius.
I am struggling with the connection of a cannister oil filter on my '51-3100. As usual, the Factory Assembly Manual is not much help. Section 0 - Sheet 6.00 shows two oil ports, but there are actually three [See 1st photo]. The first photo shows two ports with a bypass tube at each end. The third is closed with a red rubber plug.
The second photo shows the tee & street elbow fitting in the port that was plugged and the top hose from the cannister with the oil pressure line sitting on the frame. If I install the oil pressure line to the tee where does the bottom hose of the oil filter go?
If I take out one of the bypass connector and install the bottom hose there, that leaves an open port. It also makes the bottom hose touch the exhaust pipe [which cannot be good].
Help!
Greg
Blueflame236
Member
MishaZ
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So I’m bringing this thread from the dead…
Just a 1951 3100 and starting to do work on it as seller had it sitting in the garage for the last 20 years.
I was going to start with fluid flushes and rubber hose changes. When looking for oil filter, I did not find one and the ports that would go to the oil canister have brass stoppers.
I read here that some go without a filter, but would you need to have a hose still interconnected between the ports?
Just a 1951 3100 and starting to do work on it as seller had it sitting in the garage for the last 20 years.
I was going to start with fluid flushes and rubber hose changes. When looking for oil filter, I did not find one and the ports that would go to the oil canister have brass stoppers.
I read here that some go without a filter, but would you need to have a hose still interconnected between the ports?
NO ! .
It's a bypass oil filter so if not connected leave the brass plugs in place .
THANK YOU for including a partial picture of the World Famous Chevy I6 engine, near and dear to my heart since he early 1960's .
It's a bypass oil filter so if not connected leave the brass plugs in place .
THANK YOU for including a partial picture of the World Famous Chevy I6 engine, near and dear to my heart since he early 1960's .