Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step

Discussion in '1960-1966' started by Lakeroadster, Mar 3, 2011.

  1. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    01-27-2012 New Header Gaskets

    The ole orange crate has a slight header gasket leak so I decided to replace the exhaust header gaskets. For the engine to header gaskets I used stock manifold gaskets. They are metallic on one side and paper on the other. The paper side goes against the head, foil side against the header. Since the '65 has stock oval port 1970 heads using stock manifold gaskets just makes sense. The good folks at Chevy spent a lot of money designing these, so I'll take advantage of their hard work and ingenuity.

    Here's the gasket set P/N's I ended up using:
    [​IMG]

    Gaskets installed:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And to torque the back two header bolts on the right side this works pretty slick:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2013
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Exh. Leaks

    No more leaks ? .

    The head to head flange looks pretty uneven , I'da prolly taken off the headers and planed them flat .
     
  3. 64shortbed

    64shortbed Member

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    Looks good! I always use those exhaust gaskets. Looks better then the one piece ones. And so easy to put in!
     
  4. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Photo is deceptive Nate. The headers have a raised face machined surface....

    [​IMG][/
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Sealing Surface

    I can see the raised surface cl;early , it might have been machined once upon a time but now it's clearly very uneven .


    That's why I said I'd plane it a bit ~ rough surface like that won't seal well .

    I've been though this before with Imported vehicles using this same setup and solid copper seals ~ once the surface got like this they'd leak , the fix was simple if labor intensive .
     
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  6. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Opinions vary. I do know that the set-up, as shown, doesn't leak. :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2013
  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Exh. Sealing

    Understood ! .

    I used to LOVE those Asbestos exhaust gaskets as they'd conform to rough surfaces but no longer available in the U.S. of A.
     
  8. Strodder

    Strodder Member

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    Been catching up on your thread. Nice work, and you have some good ideas. Your doing something different, and that's what I'm tying to do also with my build on the 67-72 Chevy Trucks Forum. I have 80 pages so far, and too much to post here from the start. Keep up the good work.:cool:
     
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  9. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Strodder, I remember you from over at that other site :). Thanks for the kind words about my ole orange crate.

    Great to have you here, stick around, I think you'll like it, I know I do. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2013
  10. Strodder

    Strodder Member

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    I will stick around. Did you look at my build?
     
  11. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Sure did / have. I've been following your build for years, awesome work, you're definately a "No Fear" fabricator!
     
  12. Strodder

    Strodder Member

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    Thanks. Yeah that's the problem why I'm not done with it: I'm a glutton for punishment...haha :rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2013
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  13. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  14. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    De Luxe Trim

    I like it ! .
     
  15. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    April 2013: U-Joint and Transmission Seal

    Thanks Nate. ;)

    Installed a rear u-joint today and a rear lip seal on the transmission. My truck has a Muncie M-21 4-speed and doesn't have a drain for the tranny fluid, I am therefore syphoning out the lube. Any body know of a better way, other than unbolting the trans from the motor and rotating it?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2013
  16. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Tricky Gear Oil Drains

    If it's a GM Product , there's an easy way to drain it ~

    I'd remove the lowest bolt on the back of the tranny , I can see it in your picture .

    If there's a PTO plate , you can remove that .

    Usually it'll be a cover bolt that's low mounted .

    This works on Pumpkins too .
     
  17. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try this weekend Nate. The weather turned cold here (15 degrees) so that 85W gear lube is no doubt like pudding now.

    Seems like I'll still need to suction some of the remaining fluid out since the lower tailshaft bolt is still higher than the bottom of the trans.

    [​IMG]

    I think I'm also going to pickup one of these, see below, from NAPA, it's about $15. Basically a grease gun with a different cap. Use it to suction out the old lube, and to push in some new lube.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    I missed It

    I see a 1/2" NPT drain plug in the pic , just remove it and wait a day for it to stop dripping .

    Then of course, replace that plain drain plug with a 1/2" NPT magnetic one .
     
  19. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Nate,

    The older M-21 Muncies, like the one in my '65 C10, don't have a drain plug, but they do have a boss cast into the case for a drain plug.

    I lifted the photo above from the internet to depict how much higher the lower tail shaft bolt is than the theoretical lowest part of the case that contains fluid.

    Next time I need to change a clutch I'll drill and tap the drain plug boss. 'Till then I'm gonna have to improvise.

    Thanks,

    John

    FYI: I filled the trans. today with GL-4 and then decided to see if the tailhousing bolts could indeed be used as a drain. I removed the three lowest bolts, all were blind tapped, no fluid drains out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2013
  20. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Routine Service Fun (or not)

    That's the damndest thing ~ .

    I agree , drill & tap that bugger .

    Don't forget the 1/2" NPT magnetic drain plug ! .
     
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