Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step

Arm Rests 07-29-2013

Installation of Door Arm Rests

The arm rests attach to the door, not the removable door panels and from the factory used cage nuts in square punched door openings. As usual I had to Lakeroadsterize this . Instead of cage nuts I added a reinforcing bar behind the door made from 5/16" th. x 3/4" wide x 14" long steel. The bar has (2) 1/4"-20 tapped holes for the arm rests and (2) 5/16" thru holes to fasten the bar to the sheet metal door. The end result is very well supported arm rests. Since the arm rests are also used to pull the door closed I figured this was a worthwhile modification.

As a side note before I reinstalled the inside door handles I looked at my '65 service manual to see what the "factory" orientation was. There were photos showing the handle horizontal (pointing forward) and vertical (pointing downward). Not that it matters but I just found it curious that there wasn't one standard way that they installed them.

 

Arm Rests

MORE good works there ! .

FWIW , when I were a lad and your truck was new , I never recall the handles in other positions .

 

i am enjoying everyting you are doing with this truck
how does it handle on the streets
mine is bone stock minus an intake and i am looking at a new suspension
4" hd shocks you said where did you get them and what is in the front because i love the stance you gave it!

also i would like to know where you got your springs

 

Well, it pretty much handles like a truck, a bit better than stock due to the radial tires and lower stance.

Shocks: Page 4, Post 51

Rear Springs: Page 18, Post 266

Front Springs: Heated with a torch by the Previous Owner.

Hope that helps and welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks Mark, that answers the quandary.

60-63 Interior Door Handle Operation:

• clockwise opens the door,
• counter-clockwise locks the door

​

64-66 Interior Door Handle Operation:

• clockwise locks the door,
• counter-clockwise opens the door

​

 

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Update:

This winter's to-do-list for the ole orange crate includes a front suspension and steering rebuild and a dual master cylinder install. The drum brakes and 6 lug hubs however are staying. Contemplating a front sway bar addition also.​

Anybody here got any suggestions regarding rebuilding the oem front end, such as Moog vs. ???? Go with parts from my local NAPA or buy a kit from our host? I really want to avoid foreign made parts.

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/products.asp?cat=2279

Thanks in advance.

John

 

Moog. I sell moog and partsmaster. Partsmaster is basicly made by moog. Just a differant box. And I believe same warrany if I remember right.

 

Parts Ain't Parts

I'd go Moog , it's the best there is .

Why not check out the Partsmaster line ? if it's really the same you can $ave a goodly bit .

 

Thanks guys. From what I have researched thus far it appears Rock Auto seems to have the best prices.

 

This is what i sell the partsmaster for...

PARTS MASTER/MOOG
UP CTRL ARM SHFT KIT 1. K6098 * $30.50
FRONT
LO CTRL ARM SHFT KIT 2. K6147 * $40.63
FRONT
UPPER BALL JOINT 3. K6024 * $20.88
FRONT
LOWER BALL JOINT 4. K6023 * $18.63


This is what i sell the moog for...

MOOG
UP CTRL ARM SHFT KIT 1. K6098 * $42.04
FRONT
LO CTRL ARM SHFT KIT 2. K6147 * $48.75
PROBLEM SOLVER - FRONT
UPPER BALL JOINT 3. K6024 * $27.72
FRONT - PROBLEM SOLVER - INCL POWDERED-METAL GUSHER
BEARING TO ALLOW GREASE TO PENETRATE BEARING SURFACES
LOWER BALL JOINT 4. K6023 * $25.60
FRONT - PROBLEM SOLVER - INCL POWDERED-METAL GUSHER
BEARING TO ALLOW GREASE TO PENETRATE BEARING SURFACES

 

K

I don't know why, but if you got to Rockauto.com http://www.rockauto.com/ there prices are about 50% less in total than the prices you listed for the same parts? Thoughts?

K6098 = $22.79
K6147 = $26.79
K6024 = $14.86
K6023 = $8.03​

 

Yeah rockauto is normaly cheaper. But if you have a problem with something you can't just bring it in to the parts store and replace it. I work at bumper to bumper here in town and I have this guy that tells me everytime he comes in "I can get it cheaper on line" I say yeah you can but good luck if you need something replaced and have to have it that day.

I'm not saying its bad to shop on line for parts I'm just saying if for some reason its not right you have to wait for the right part or go see your local parts store.

 

Bumper to Bumper... cool ! I bought a bunch of parts from them when I lived back east.

I agree with buying locally. When I am ready to buy I'll take the parts list to my NAPA guy and see how close he can come. Typically he does right by me.

 

How it goin on ur rebuild? Have you got started?

 

Not yet.. It'll be a winter project. Too much good weather and honey doo's this time of year

 

Nice build!!! I have the same long bed fender for my truck and was wondering if I could have some picture of the way you made the carrier. I am having a heck of a time finding one and am thinking of making one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Structural Steel Welded Spare Tire Bracket

66 Truck Drive,

Always glad to help. Go to post #11 here for more information: https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=13928

And go to the following links for drawings of the parts:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...er Oct 2009/TireMountSheetOne_zpsb9d1aae5.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...er Oct 2009/TireMountSheetTwo_zps7206b931.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/... Oct 2009/TireMountSheetThree_zps9c2a016a.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...r Oct 2009/TireMountSheetFour_zps8ad617a8.jpg

Hope this helps...

 

Thanks bud! It really helps!

 

3rd time I have looked at your build, one sweet truck bud!

 

Lakeroadster, how has the Krylon interior paint held up for you? The time has come to pick an interior paint for a '65 C10 I'm working on (build thread here). I've been considering the same paint you used, just in another shade, Satin Nickel. Since it's labeled as an "indoor" paint rather than outdoor/automotive/etc., I'm just trying to check in with a few people that have used this paint in regards to how well it is holding up. I sure don't want to end up doing this job twice.

Thanks in advance for any real world feedback!