• We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.

Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step

01-27-2012 New Header Gaskets

The ole orange crate has a slight header gasket leak so I decided to replace the exhaust header gaskets. For the engine to header gaskets I used stock manifold gaskets. They are metallic on one side and paper on the other. The paper side goes against the head, foil side against the header. Since the '65 has stock oval port 1970 heads using stock manifold gaskets just makes sense. The good folks at Chevy spent a lot of money designing these, so I'll take advantage of their hard work and ingenuity.

Here's the gasket set P/N's I ended up using:
DSCF1797_zps2d4b3d0d.jpg


Gaskets installed:
DSCF1811_zps36d0a86b.jpg

DSCF1810_zps7e47c69f.jpg


And to torque the back two header bolts on the right side this works pretty slick:
DSCF1793_zpsc011172e.jpg

DSCF1795_zpsfd3678e9.jpg
 
Last edited:
Exh. Leaks

No more leaks ? .

The head to head flange looks pretty uneven , I'da prolly taken off the headers and planed them flat .
 
Sealing Surface

I can see the raised surface cl;early , it might have been machined once upon a time but now it's clearly very uneven .


That's why I said I'd plane it a bit ~ rough surface like that won't seal well .

I've been though this before with Imported vehicles using this same setup and solid copper seals ~ once the surface got like this they'd leak , the fix was simple if labor intensive .
 
Exh. Sealing

Understood ! .

I used to LOVE those Asbestos exhaust gaskets as they'd conform to rough surfaces but no longer available in the U.S. of A.
 
Been catching up on your thread. Nice work, and you have some good ideas. Your doing something different, and that's what I'm tying to do also with my build on the 67-72 Chevy Trucks Forum. I have 80 pages so far, and too much to post here from the start. Keep up the good work.:cool:
 
Strodder, I remember you from over at that other site :). Thanks for the kind words about my ole orange crate.

Great to have you here, stick around, I think you'll like it, I know I do. :D
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Yeah that's the problem why I'm not done with it: I'm a glutton for punishment...haha :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
April 2013: U-Joint and Transmission Seal

Thanks Nate. ;)

Installed a rear u-joint today and a rear lip seal on the transmission. My truck has a Muncie M-21 4-speed and doesn't have a drain for the tranny fluid, I am therefore syphoning out the lube. Any body know of a better way, other than unbolting the trans from the motor and rotating it?

DSCF2035_zps96ff84eb.jpg


DSCF2036_zps0a848c88.jpg


DSCF2040_zps86d74784.jpg
 
Last edited:
Tricky Gear Oil Drains

If it's a GM Product , there's an easy way to drain it ~

I'd remove the lowest bolt on the back of the tranny , I can see it in your picture .

If there's a PTO plate , you can remove that .

Usually it'll be a cover bolt that's low mounted .

This works on Pumpkins too .
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try this weekend Nate. The weather turned cold here (15 degrees) so that 85W gear lube is no doubt like pudding now.

Seems like I'll still need to suction some of the remaining fluid out since the lower tailshaft bolt is still higher than the bottom of the trans.

M-21_zps1163ab19.jpg


I think I'm also going to pickup one of these, see below, from NAPA, it's about $15. Basically a grease gun with a different cap. Use it to suction out the old lube, and to push in some new lube.

image_12992_zps484b7858.jpg
 
I missed It

I see a 1/2" NPT drain plug in the pic , just remove it and wait a day for it to stop dripping .

Then of course, replace that plain drain plug with a 1/2" NPT magnetic one .
 
Nate,

The older M-21 Muncies, like the one in my '65 C10, don't have a drain plug, but they do have a boss cast into the case for a drain plug.

I lifted the photo above from the internet to depict how much higher the lower tail shaft bolt is than the theoretical lowest part of the case that contains fluid.

Next time I need to change a clutch I'll drill and tap the drain plug boss. 'Till then I'm gonna have to improvise.

Thanks,

John

vwnate1 said:
If it's a GM Product , there's an easy way to drain it ~

I'd remove the lowest bolt on the back of the tranny , I can see it in your picture .

If there's a PTO plate , you can remove that .

Usually it'll be a cover bolt that's low mounted .

This works on Pumpkins too .
Click to expand...

FYI: I filled the trans. today with GL-4 and then decided to see if the tailhousing bolts could indeed be used as a drain. I removed the three lowest bolts, all were blind tapped, no fluid drains out.
 
Last edited:
Routine Service Fun (or not)

That's the damndest thing ~ .

I agree , drill & tap that bugger .

Don't forget the 1/2" NPT magnetic drain plug ! .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top