• We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.

Okay---Here goes

C

coilover

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
2,564
Reaction score
136
Location
Plano US
Going to try a build thread; first ever and might be as appealing as yesterdays meal floating on the surface of a septic tank.
In the beginning: Long bed single cab S10 (nice truck totaled due to engine fire).
S10 011.jpg


Cab and bed removed; all done with a 17mm socket
S10 011.jpg
S10 014.jpg


Frame cleaned top and bottom
S10 018.jpg
S10 019.jpg
 
mod A 017.jpg

That didn't work so good but you get the idea. NEXT: 1/2 inch plate cut to shape, marked, then drilled and tapped for factory motor mount. Welded to S10 front cross member.
mod A 016.jpg
 
Everyone STOP LAUGHING! Now to the ad-engineering kit. Cab mounts are set in place with metal building screws (easier to re-position, later welded). S10 mount cushions are used and there should be a 2" spacer in the kit for the rear cab mount.
S10 028.jpg
 
Tape line is run across back of cab to show factory bed height (measured from any factory AD). Important so the fillers between the running boards and bed will fit.
S10 032.jpg
 
Sheet metal in place. Radiator core support has bottom cut off just above the curve and attached to S10 frame with angle iron brackets.
S10 034.jpg
 
Running board mount modification (if an early kit) so it clears the rear leaf spring eye bolt bracket. The frame end of the bracket is cut at a 45* angle.
S10 035.jpg
 
Front bumper brackets modified to fit S10 frame. Final ones are formed from strap to eliminate welds.
S10 058.jpg
 
S10 with 2 1/4" spacer. Note S10 frame has to be cut off even with front of steering box for front sheet metal to fit down in place.
S10 039.jpg
 
Radiator raised to clear power steering gear box. Just drill new holes in mount flange and re-mount in a higher position---hood will still clear.
S10 051.jpg
 
Steering column was cut, raised, and floor anchor made. Bushing in bottom of column, AD steering shaft to S10 steering shaft connector and factory S10 shaft and rag joint used. Raising the column allows this and gives exhaust manifold clearance.
S10 044.jpg
 
If using a mechanical fuel pump heat a spot on the front cross member and massage in clearance with a BFH.
S10 056.jpg
 
We use a Ford accelerator cable because it just takes a small round hole in the firewall and has a built in return spring. It's in the 11 o'clock position beside the brake booster. Other end has integral return spring.
S10 053.jpg
S10 050.jpg
 
A very simple start in park only switch. Solenoid wire from ignition switch is run through an all weather (boat) starter switch which is activated by a tab on the shifter lever.
S10 055.jpg
 
If running a V8 or the 4.3 V6 it is not necessary to buy the high dollar long temp sensor tube, just drill and tap the rear coolant crossover runner on the factory intake manifold and the AD temp sender will reach with room to spare.
S10 054.jpg
 
For an E-brake just cut off and re-thread the rod that used to run from the foot pedal to the cross shaft on the AD frame. Install an equalizer and run the E-brake cable from the backing plates through it. This will be just like E-brake set ups used for years.
S10 048.jpg
S10 049.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top