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Progress, however slow... but isn't it about the JOURNEY?
- Thread starter 52wasp
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52wasp
Member
Weekly progress update
Good morning all, here is my weekly photo upload. Good progress this past week. I punched a hole in the rear bed crossmember for spare tire-hoist access. The small rectangular cover (currently bare black plastic- to be painted to match bed) and the hoist are from a 99-07 full-size GM truck. The old "mockup" hoist is visible here. I have a new one in-hand, it just needs some modification (like the old one got). I also drilled the access thru-hole in the spare tire crossmember. Everything lines up nicely. The part behind the cover required some slicing and dicing with the band saw, followed by some plastic-welding to put it back together to fit.
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I also punched the bedside to accept the original AD (cab mounted) filler neck. It will require a 45-degree bent piece of filler-neck hose to make the connection.
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I have also (finally) drilled ALL of the mounting holes for the AD conversion kit mounting, and have fastened all the cab and bed mounts with Grade 8 hardware. Running board brackets are next. I also had a lightbulb moment where I figured out how I was going to attach the rear-bumper "bracketry" to the frame. Pictures of that to follow as it comes together.
Mike
Good morning all, here is my weekly photo upload. Good progress this past week. I punched a hole in the rear bed crossmember for spare tire-hoist access. The small rectangular cover (currently bare black plastic- to be painted to match bed) and the hoist are from a 99-07 full-size GM truck. The old "mockup" hoist is visible here. I have a new one in-hand, it just needs some modification (like the old one got). I also drilled the access thru-hole in the spare tire crossmember. Everything lines up nicely. The part behind the cover required some slicing and dicing with the band saw, followed by some plastic-welding to put it back together to fit.
I also punched the bedside to accept the original AD (cab mounted) filler neck. It will require a 45-degree bent piece of filler-neck hose to make the connection.
I have also (finally) drilled ALL of the mounting holes for the AD conversion kit mounting, and have fastened all the cab and bed mounts with Grade 8 hardware. Running board brackets are next. I also had a lightbulb moment where I figured out how I was going to attach the rear-bumper "bracketry" to the frame. Pictures of that to follow as it comes together.
Mike
52wasp
Member
More pictures... an image shot thru the access.
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And the part, revamped and plastic welded.
Here is the complete Hoist system, dry fitted. The new hoist has had its top flanges cut off, to suit this application. L-brackets (sitting on crossmember) to be fitted and welded.
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And the part, revamped and plastic welded.
Here is the complete Hoist system, dry fitted. The new hoist has had its top flanges cut off, to suit this application. L-brackets (sitting on crossmember) to be fitted and welded.
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Last edited:
52wasp
Member
Wednesday Progress.
I mocked up the (repop of the original) fuel filler neck (see previous post) and realized it was going to need surgery. I cut the bend out of it on the band saw, and welded the straight portion back on. Took measurements. I did some internet sleuthing, and came up with a Fuel Filler Hose which was long enough, had a 45 degree bend, and was 2" ID at one end and 1-7/8" ID at the other. Perfect for what I needed. I sliced some length off of both ends with the trusty band saw. I then trimmed the (repop) AD fuel filler neck hose down to size, and slid it over the neck. The 1-7/8" end of the new hose fit nicely over it. Then I installed the whole mess, and slipped the 2" end over the spud on the gas tank. Done! I also cut a piece of the repop AD vent hose, and slipped it over the (shortened since the picture was taken) vent tube. I'll need to buy some 3/4" diameter vent hose to connect to the tank.
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I stopped by my local junkyard (5 minutes away) and picked up a 99-07 full-sized-pickup jack and tools. Welded the tabs on the new hoist, and she's done. (tools shown installed for clarity)
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These are two items I have been longing to cross off of the list. I also dropped the 4L60E transmission off at a recommended shop, for upgrades to handle the (estimated) 400 ft/lbs of torque the engine will produce. Stock 4L60E's are rated for 360 ft/lbs. I figured it was safe insurance to upgrade NOW, and not after the tranny puked its guts out in an intersection.
I mocked up the (repop of the original) fuel filler neck (see previous post) and realized it was going to need surgery. I cut the bend out of it on the band saw, and welded the straight portion back on. Took measurements. I did some internet sleuthing, and came up with a Fuel Filler Hose which was long enough, had a 45 degree bend, and was 2" ID at one end and 1-7/8" ID at the other. Perfect for what I needed. I sliced some length off of both ends with the trusty band saw. I then trimmed the (repop) AD fuel filler neck hose down to size, and slid it over the neck. The 1-7/8" end of the new hose fit nicely over it. Then I installed the whole mess, and slipped the 2" end over the spud on the gas tank. Done! I also cut a piece of the repop AD vent hose, and slipped it over the (shortened since the picture was taken) vent tube. I'll need to buy some 3/4" diameter vent hose to connect to the tank.
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I stopped by my local junkyard (5 minutes away) and picked up a 99-07 full-sized-pickup jack and tools. Welded the tabs on the new hoist, and she's done. (tools shown installed for clarity)
.
These are two items I have been longing to cross off of the list. I also dropped the 4L60E transmission off at a recommended shop, for upgrades to handle the (estimated) 400 ft/lbs of torque the engine will produce. Stock 4L60E's are rated for 360 ft/lbs. I figured it was safe insurance to upgrade NOW, and not after the tranny puked its guts out in an intersection.
52wasp
Member
Friday Progress Report
Good Friday afternoon my fellow ADers. With the filler neck and spare tire hoist tasks complete, I turned my attention to the Rear Bumper. As I mentioned in a previous post, I had a "lightbulb moment" where the HOW to attach became clear. First, I positioned the bumper (square) on the workbench. Then, I sketched what the brackets needed to look like- right on the bench. Using 3/16" X 2" flat stock, I fabricated the brackets. I "kerfed" the bend lines with the band saw, to make the bends doable by hand, and it kept the bends crisp. I will weld-in all the kerfs when I blow it all apart for welding.
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. In this picture, you can see the sketch of all of the goings on.
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Next, I assembled the pair of brackets to the bumper, and then the rear bumper "filler panel" over the nuts holding the brackets. This gave me a subassembly to clamp to the rear bed crossmember. Then I cut some 1-1/2" X 3' box-tubing sections, followed by "tabs" of 3/16" X 2" flat stock to attach to the frame, using the 1/2" bolts that hold the hitch. I added a second tab (holes yet to be drilled in frame) for two points of contact. DRIVERS SIDE
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PASSENGER SIDE
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REAR BUMPER, INSTALLED
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A very productive week in the shop. I am pleased with the bumper mounting. I have some "energy absorbing" features, and the bumper is held to the frame with 3, 1/2" Grade 8 bolts at each side. I will have my local machine shop cut the 2-1/4" square hitch-access hole out of the bumper rather than doing it by hand.
Good Friday afternoon my fellow ADers. With the filler neck and spare tire hoist tasks complete, I turned my attention to the Rear Bumper. As I mentioned in a previous post, I had a "lightbulb moment" where the HOW to attach became clear. First, I positioned the bumper (square) on the workbench. Then, I sketched what the brackets needed to look like- right on the bench. Using 3/16" X 2" flat stock, I fabricated the brackets. I "kerfed" the bend lines with the band saw, to make the bends doable by hand, and it kept the bends crisp. I will weld-in all the kerfs when I blow it all apart for welding.
.
. In this picture, you can see the sketch of all of the goings on.
.
Next, I assembled the pair of brackets to the bumper, and then the rear bumper "filler panel" over the nuts holding the brackets. This gave me a subassembly to clamp to the rear bed crossmember. Then I cut some 1-1/2" X 3' box-tubing sections, followed by "tabs" of 3/16" X 2" flat stock to attach to the frame, using the 1/2" bolts that hold the hitch. I added a second tab (holes yet to be drilled in frame) for two points of contact. DRIVERS SIDE
.
.
PASSENGER SIDE
.
.
REAR BUMPER, INSTALLED
.
A very productive week in the shop. I am pleased with the bumper mounting. I have some "energy absorbing" features, and the bumper is held to the frame with 3, 1/2" Grade 8 bolts at each side. I will have my local machine shop cut the 2-1/4" square hitch-access hole out of the bumper rather than doing it by hand.
52wasp
Member
Good Saturday morning!
With the rear bumper mounting squared away, and while waiting for the transmission to be finished up, I turned my attention to the Vent Windows. They came apart with some resistance. One of the vent frames is "stuck" by virtue of some "corrosion" holding things together. The other will need a new stud as a minimum. Looking for options.
I have considered drilling out the rivets to hold the studs, and grinding/cutting some 5/16" bolts to weld in to replace the corroded double-d shafts.
Question: might any of you have a pair of vent window frames (best option)? Or perhaps even just the studs that rivet into the frame (good option)? Or, a pair of complete vent window assemblies?
Thanks,
Mike
With the rear bumper mounting squared away, and while waiting for the transmission to be finished up, I turned my attention to the Vent Windows. They came apart with some resistance. One of the vent frames is "stuck" by virtue of some "corrosion" holding things together. The other will need a new stud as a minimum. Looking for options.
I have considered drilling out the rivets to hold the studs, and grinding/cutting some 5/16" bolts to weld in to replace the corroded double-d shafts.
Question: might any of you have a pair of vent window frames (best option)? Or perhaps even just the studs that rivet into the frame (good option)? Or, a pair of complete vent window assemblies?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike ;
The doors are the same on the larger trucks so my go to solution is always to go looking for an old farm truck that's not often been in road salt, buy the door complete and at my leisure take it apart gently and save all the hard to find hardware, vent wings etc. .
Unless you're planning to have it chromed this one looks like it'll be file if you de rust it, look into electrolysis rust removal and give it a go before $pending any $ elsewhere .
The doors are the same on the larger trucks so my go to solution is always to go looking for an old farm truck that's not often been in road salt, buy the door complete and at my leisure take it apart gently and save all the hard to find hardware, vent wings etc. .
Unless you're planning to have it chromed this one looks like it'll be file if you de rust it, look into electrolysis rust removal and give it a go before $pending any $ elsewhere .
52wasp
Member
Thanks for the ideas Nate. I have used electrolysis for derusting previously. The headlight buckets came out pretty clean using that method. The truck will have very little chrome.
52wasp
Member
Thank you for the kind words. I'm just doing the best I can!
52wasp
Member
Good Thursday afternoon,
It's been a month since I last posted any updates. Making GOOD progress. Transmission is back from "upgrades". I have purchased and installed a Trailblazer SS intake manifold (widely regarded as THE best stock intake manifold out there for an LS). The transmission and engine are back in the chassis. CAD files for the steering column mounts went to the machine shop last week. The rear bumper also got dropped off at the machine shop, to have a hole for the tow hitch machined out (vs me drilling 4 corners, and cutting the rest out with the death wheel). I picked up a matching wheel for the full-sized spare Penny will carry. I also modified the stock water pump to accept right-angle NPT-to-hose-barb fittings, with fittings ordered. The right-angle fittings will clear the inner fender. It's funny, I have (at times) second guessed exactly WHY I offset the engine 1-1/4" to the passenger side. Primarily for a straight shot from the steering box to the steering column, but I noticed yesterday the power steering pump pulley is only 5/8" from the steering box, so the motor HAD TO move (in my case). I met with a "tuner" who I will be working with once the truck runs. Steering shaft stock and a double-D coupler are en route. A rebuild kit for the Hydroboost arrived yesterday. Lots of deliveries in the last month!
Mike
It's been a month since I last posted any updates. Making GOOD progress. Transmission is back from "upgrades". I have purchased and installed a Trailblazer SS intake manifold (widely regarded as THE best stock intake manifold out there for an LS). The transmission and engine are back in the chassis. CAD files for the steering column mounts went to the machine shop last week. The rear bumper also got dropped off at the machine shop, to have a hole for the tow hitch machined out (vs me drilling 4 corners, and cutting the rest out with the death wheel). I picked up a matching wheel for the full-sized spare Penny will carry. I also modified the stock water pump to accept right-angle NPT-to-hose-barb fittings, with fittings ordered. The right-angle fittings will clear the inner fender. It's funny, I have (at times) second guessed exactly WHY I offset the engine 1-1/4" to the passenger side. Primarily for a straight shot from the steering box to the steering column, but I noticed yesterday the power steering pump pulley is only 5/8" from the steering box, so the motor HAD TO move (in my case). I met with a "tuner" who I will be working with once the truck runs. Steering shaft stock and a double-D coupler are en route. A rebuild kit for the Hydroboost arrived yesterday. Lots of deliveries in the last month!
Mike
Wow Mike ;
Looking good and in this heat no less =
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I'm reminded of your thread title every time I'm working on my old vehicles .
Yesterday I got up with the sun and began working on my 57 year old BMW Motocycle, it wasn't terribly hard work but it was 95* in the shade, I worked until I was finished and am very well pleased with the results .
Like your truck it has a long, long ways to go but at least I can now ride it and instead of folks laughing at it I get positive comments although I know it's a pile of junk that should have been scrapped .
Keep on going Good Sir, one of these days you'll post a nice test drive reply .
Looking good and in this heat no less =
.I'm reminded of your thread title every time I'm working on my old vehicles .
Yesterday I got up with the sun and began working on my 57 year old BMW Motocycle, it wasn't terribly hard work but it was 95* in the shade, I worked until I was finished and am very well pleased with the results .
Like your truck it has a long, long ways to go but at least I can now ride it and instead of folks laughing at it I get positive comments although I know it's a pile of junk that should have been scrapped .
Keep on going Good Sir, one of these days you'll post a nice test drive reply .
52wasp
Member
Nate, thank you for the kind words. It HAS been a very long journey here. Over 20 years now, of course punctuated with starts and stops and life getting in the way, as it often does. I try to work on Penny every day, even if for a short while. Sometimes just figuring out what I need to order to support the next task is what gets done, but that is still something. My "goal" is to drive her in the late spring- much to do between now and then. While it has been hot here, my shop is 3 walls of concrete, so it stays comfortably cool, regardless of what's going on outside. I should have picture-worthy progress to show in the coming weeks. I have to say, I have waited my whole life to have a SHOP where I could work on cars. The 7-year hiatus on the truck was worth it, as I now HAVE the shop I have always wanted. I can cut, grind, and weld with no worries (my last space had a wooden floor) about sparks. I can LIFT the vehicle instead of using a creeper under it. Light, Heat, lift... who could ask for more?
One can always ask for more, no guarantees tho' 
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I too greatly wish for a proper shop after my entire life as a working Mechanic, all I have is a termite infested 1923 "T" Model Ford garage I've never even had a Motocycle inside of as it's where my tools and spares live .
At least I now have a nice shady canopy and two hydraulic jacks plus of course safety stands and many blocks of wood .
For me, as I near my end (having the devil of a time swinging my leg over my old Motocycle these days) I no longer wish for a well equipped shop but I'm happy I was able to buy my little place to raise my now grown and gone family and still work, tinker really .
.I too greatly wish for a proper shop after my entire life as a working Mechanic, all I have is a termite infested 1923 "T" Model Ford garage I've never even had a Motocycle inside of as it's where my tools and spares live .
At least I now have a nice shady canopy and two hydraulic jacks plus of course safety stands and many blocks of wood .
For me, as I near my end (having the devil of a time swinging my leg over my old Motocycle these days) I no longer wish for a well equipped shop but I'm happy I was able to buy my little place to raise my now grown and gone family and still work, tinker really .