Rebuilding the 54

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Climberdad, Oct 18, 2009.

  1. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    The 54 engine I have in mine Runs good but finding parts for it is a challenge as Nate said.
     
  2. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Hello all!

    OK - the head numbers are as follows:
    Passenger side plates: B54 848 then it looks like an 85 underneath.
    Top inside the Valve Cover: Con 9 B25 0
    Top outside the Valve Cover on the Drivers Side: 3836848 GM22

    The casting number shows to be a 56 model head.

    Dropped the engine off with Jerry this am. Now the fun begins... ;)

    I'll keep you updated over the next month on the engine progress.
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Your Late 235

    Is the best there is .

    That 848 head is the latest & greatest one , very crack resistant .

    Now you know , it's a '56 ~ '62 235 and parts are plentiful .
     
  4. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Here is mine...

    New engine...a 235.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Casting # looks like July 18 58
    [​IMG]

    series# Inliners.org says this is a 55 block.
    [​IMG]

    serial#
    [​IMG]

    on the head..
    [​IMG]

    side of the head..
    [​IMG]
     
  5. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    In taking it apart, I found that the oil tube to the rocker assembly is broken. Found another through Jim Meyer. Apparently I have the 54-55 block and 54-62 head.

    How many freeze plgs are in this thing. I found the 2 on the side. Are those strange looking large disks on the front and back freeze plugs also?
     
  6. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    Is this what you are talking about?

    Yes, it is a freeze plug. Note the hole in mine. The one in front and back are "outties" unlike the side ones that are "innies".

    The "outties" are much tougher to hammer home. They want to turn on you. A large socket and a mallet are the right tools.

    BTW, the plugs are available at NAPA.



    Greg
     

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  7. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    That is what I thought.
     
  8. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Nice block - head combo - that's the same thing I've got. What are your plans for yours?

     
  9. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Maybe dual carbs, cam and exhaust. Keep it simple for a driver.
     
  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Actually no ~ as I read the block date , it's a '58 235 .

    I'm usualy wrong tho' so no worries .

    Now , whilst it's out, clean it and re - spray it GREY like it should be , when you attach all those luvverly black accessories it'll look sweet .
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2009
  11. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Yeah, the date does look like 58, however, the water holes behind the waterpump are the 54-55 configuration. Several sites say that the casting number is for the early block. These engines use the water pump like the 216. From what patrick's says, the 216 manifolds Fit but are too small.

    And it will be grey, I already ordered a new can. I'm just debating about the stickers. Should I put the 53 sticker so people may not notice the swap, or the 235 badging. Depending on what info you read, lots of places say the 235 was available in trucks in 53, though we know it was 54.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2009
  12. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    While I was waiting for the engine to come back - I started another project. Both of my kids compete in Rock Climbing. Their coach and his wife are having a baby - so I built them a present. My dad taught me woodworking and I have always loved it.
     

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  13. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Now that the woodworking is finished and I have the engine back it's time to get this girl rolling again.

    Engine specs:
    Cylinders went from Std to .060 over. The #4 was pitted very bad from having water in it back when the head cracked - at least that is what I am assuming. Rod and Main Journals are .010 over - they were very clean. The head was shaved .010. The cam was replaced with a bulldog from Tom Langdon - very mild. Timing gear replaced. New springs, push rods and mechanical lifters. Trying to figure out what color to paint it. I understand that the grey is stock - but it's just too plain. Right now it is just primered to keep the rust off.
     

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  14. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Spent the day cleaning things up. Got the engine breather cleaned up and the tab welded back on. It's painted and ready to go. The bell housing is in the parts washer and almost ready to go. Engine compartment is clean and ready for some paint.
     

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  15. azcarman411

    azcarman411 Member

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    54-55 1st engine color

    The 54 and newer 6 cyl engines were painted blue. Check out the factory brochure on Classic Parts home page, just left of were you click to get to the forums. Scroll over to the 54 and 55 trucks, then click on them. Nice work by the way! Chris
     
  16. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Engine Color

    Yabbutt ;

    In this truck it's supposed to be gray...

    If you take the time to paint all the engine's accessories gloss black and add the rockerbox decal you like , the grey looks very nice .

    Blue is for passenger cars...
     
  17. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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  18. upnorth54

    upnorth54 Member

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    Engine color

    Here is a page out of the 1954 Chevy truck Engineering Features that tells the color of 54 truck engines, but not sure of color before 54, I pulled a 216 out of a 49 and it was gray. All the car engines i've seen were blue. John
     

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  19. Climberdad

    Climberdad Member

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    Hello all,

    I have the shift box taken apart to clean everything up. I need the spring that goes between the two lugs and the rubber boot between the box and the shift rod.

    Our host does not appear to carry these parts. Does anyone know of a source? Does anyone who's gone to a floor shifter or an automatic have a box with good parts laying around?

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2009
  20. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    After taking about 5 lbs of gunk out of the engine and getting the head off, there are some rather pronounced rings at the top of the cylanders. It is a previously remanfd. block, with .60 bore and .10/.10 for bearings and crank. How much can these take if I rebuild again, , or where is the cheapest place to get a long block reman?
     

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