Zig
Member
I'd say it turned out pretty dang good for a first time!
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Steve's 50 re-re-rebuild
- Thread starter 50 Chevy LS3
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50 Chevy LS3
Member
Thanks, Zig.
50 Chevy LS3
Member
By Request...
A short departure from vintage Chevy pickup project. My apologies to those who wish to only see vintage Chevy stuff, here. This definitely has to do with restoration, etc. This is an example of the things that keep me from my '50 Chevy.
As some here know, my regular job is 18 wheel motor touring the upper midwest. Part of owning your own is trying to make it last... forever.
I stripped the frame and axles on my Kenworth, and repainted them, 14 years ago. It is time to do it again. It held up very well, considering the salt-briney, Hoosier highways I travel.
So here we go...various pics of the rear frame, stripped of tail lights, full fenders, hydraulic reservoir tank, fifth wheel, and rear drive tires. I just single out the rear with some old ugly spares.
I will use Axalta, Nason, polyurethane, gloss black, and then probably clear coat it. I'm picky, and want even my frame super glossy.
This picture makes me want to go ahead and pull the sleeper, add about 4' to the rear of the frame, and have a custom motor home body installed. Then just go where I want, when I want. (Sorry...daydreaming...)
Waiting for the portable sandblaster to get here, now.
To be continued...
Steve.
P.S. the dent in the left fuel tank is from one of two recent deer/truck, encounters. I have a new, replacement tank.
Darn deer...
A short departure from vintage Chevy pickup project. My apologies to those who wish to only see vintage Chevy stuff, here. This definitely has to do with restoration, etc. This is an example of the things that keep me from my '50 Chevy.
As some here know, my regular job is 18 wheel motor touring the upper midwest. Part of owning your own is trying to make it last... forever.
I stripped the frame and axles on my Kenworth, and repainted them, 14 years ago. It is time to do it again. It held up very well, considering the salt-briney, Hoosier highways I travel.
So here we go...various pics of the rear frame, stripped of tail lights, full fenders, hydraulic reservoir tank, fifth wheel, and rear drive tires. I just single out the rear with some old ugly spares.
I will use Axalta, Nason, polyurethane, gloss black, and then probably clear coat it. I'm picky, and want even my frame super glossy.
This picture makes me want to go ahead and pull the sleeper, add about 4' to the rear of the frame, and have a custom motor home body installed. Then just go where I want, when I want. (Sorry...daydreaming...)
Waiting for the portable sandblaster to get here, now.
To be continued...
Steve.
P.S. the dent in the left fuel tank is from one of two recent deer/truck, encounters. I have a new, replacement tank.
Darn deer...
Lakeroadster
Member
Bad to the bone Steve..... Thanks for posting.
It looks like the frame for the most part is all bolted together? Any welding? Any idea what steel is used and if it's tempered or mild?
Curious... what's your CB handle?
John
It looks like the frame for the most part is all bolted together? Any welding? Any idea what steel is used and if it's tempered or mild?
Curious... what's your CB handle?
John
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50 Chevy LS3
Member
Thanks, John.
The frame is completely bolted together. Crossmembers are extruded aluminum. Crossmember gusset's are forged or cast aluminum. All fasteners are metric, 10.2.
Frame rails are straight, C-channel, heat treated, mine are .375", single channel. I don't remember the tech., specs. They put warning stickers on new frame rails, prohibiting, welding or drilling frame flanges. The only welding on mine is at the rear, where the factory cut a pie-shape out, and bent the top flange down to form the rear taper. The flange is partly trimmed away, beside the engine for clearance.
I've seen guys re-rail a truck, by unbolting everything and using many, bottle jacks, and blocking. Then, slide the rail all the way out the rear. New frame rails can be ordered, pre-drilled from the OEM. I have changed out the frame horns, at the front, myself, on a truck I once owned. That was quite a job, with bumper, hood, spring mount, rad. x-member, forward engine mount, all attached.
It is really simple in design. Just everything is super heavy.
My handle... OK. I don't really use the CB, much, any more. Back when I started, in the 1970s, everybody had to have a handle. I started running coal, with 4 other guys, 5 trucks in a pack. After so long of the guys not knowing what to call me, they told me if I didn't come up with my own handle, they would make something up. Fearing what they would come up with, I brainstormed and decided on "Flywheel". I thought it was cool, you know, engine part, but, also, fast truck...left lane...flying wheels.
It took about half a day for them to shorten it to "wheelie"... then further to "Willie". I think only three guys still call me by that, today.
From this...
To this...
And finally, ...
I guess that is OK. I always liked Willie... And Waylon.
Steve.
The frame is completely bolted together. Crossmembers are extruded aluminum. Crossmember gusset's are forged or cast aluminum. All fasteners are metric, 10.2.
Frame rails are straight, C-channel, heat treated, mine are .375", single channel. I don't remember the tech., specs. They put warning stickers on new frame rails, prohibiting, welding or drilling frame flanges. The only welding on mine is at the rear, where the factory cut a pie-shape out, and bent the top flange down to form the rear taper. The flange is partly trimmed away, beside the engine for clearance.
I've seen guys re-rail a truck, by unbolting everything and using many, bottle jacks, and blocking. Then, slide the rail all the way out the rear. New frame rails can be ordered, pre-drilled from the OEM. I have changed out the frame horns, at the front, myself, on a truck I once owned. That was quite a job, with bumper, hood, spring mount, rad. x-member, forward engine mount, all attached.
It is really simple in design. Just everything is super heavy.
My handle... OK. I don't really use the CB, much, any more. Back when I started, in the 1970s, everybody had to have a handle. I started running coal, with 4 other guys, 5 trucks in a pack. After so long of the guys not knowing what to call me, they told me if I didn't come up with my own handle, they would make something up. Fearing what they would come up with, I brainstormed and decided on "Flywheel". I thought it was cool, you know, engine part, but, also, fast truck...left lane...flying wheels.
It took about half a day for them to shorten it to "wheelie"... then further to "Willie". I think only three guys still call me by that, today.
From this...
Steve.
Lakeroadster
Member
Thanks for the KW 101 lesson. Bolting everything makes a lot of sense. Very interesting.I guess that is OK. I always liked Willie... And Waylon.
Steve.
I, as you know, being a Peterbilt fan, went by CH in the 70's, short for "California Hauler".
That story reminds me... Ever been to Luckenbach Texas?
John
50 Chevy LS3
Member
Nope. Only I-40, straight through. On the way to Nate's town...
I have been to a Waylon and Willie, concert, once. Early 1980s. I remember the music was really loud, festival seating, real smoky in there, and I smelled like pot, when I left.
I cannot for the life of me, remember who went with me... I was driving my 1971 Chevy 4X4 Blazer.
There... I knew I could get a classic Chevy truck tie-in to this thread.
Steve.
In the 1970's I drove my friend to a Willie nelson concert in my 1946 Chevy 3100 series pickup, we had a whale of a good time .
We were so broke we could only afford the tickets, no food / beer .
NOT 'poor', just broke .
We were so broke we could only afford the tickets, no food / beer .
NOT 'poor', just broke .
50 Chevy LS3
Member
I never finished the photo show and tell, on this big truck diversion. So, here ya go...
50 Chevy LS3
Member
And these...
Rainy day...
This project ended up being sort of major. New paint, newer fifth wheel with a no-tilt convertible kit, new brakes, new drive tires, new "wet kit" hyd. lines, new center fender brackets.
This truck is 23 years old, and, will be my last one.
Steve.
This project ended up being sort of major. New paint, newer fifth wheel with a no-tilt convertible kit, new brakes, new drive tires, new "wet kit" hyd. lines, new center fender brackets.
This truck is 23 years old, and, will be my last one.
Steve.
50 Chevy LS3
Member
Opinions needed.
I'm curious what you guys think about a sound barrier, protective coating for the underside of my 50 Chevy cab. I think the factory sprayed a rubberized undercoating on the bottom side. There are several modern coatings. What say you all?
Steve.
I'm curious what you guys think about a sound barrier, protective coating for the underside of my 50 Chevy cab. I think the factory sprayed a rubberized undercoating on the bottom side. There are several modern coatings. What say you all?
Steve.
Looks like a good job on the rig .
As far as AD sound deadening, I don't like the rubberized coatings because they crack and let a little bit of water in, it travels and doesn't evaporate, causes big rust headaches .
You can easily install padding under the carpets and inside the body, roof and doors, the quietude will blow your mind .
As far as AD sound deadening, I don't like the rubberized coatings because they crack and let a little bit of water in, it travels and doesn't evaporate, causes big rust headaches .
You can easily install padding under the carpets and inside the body, roof and doors, the quietude will blow your mind .
52wasp
Member
Steve,
NICE big rig. It's one of those things folks who don't have exposure to them don't think about. That IS your 'small business'. Rolling. Flat tire? No work. Neglected-maintenance breakdowns? No work. Nice to see you are a 'proud small business owner'.
As far as sound deadeners go, any application of a product on the underside of your cab is essentially on TOP OF the painted surface- not on bare metal. I used a catalyzed product called UPOL on Penny's under-seat storage drawers. It is extremely durable, and will be what I use on Penny's cab (and tops of the running boards too). I'll also add some sound deadener (foil-faced bubble wrap perhaps) under the rubber mat.
NICE big rig. It's one of those things folks who don't have exposure to them don't think about. That IS your 'small business'. Rolling. Flat tire? No work. Neglected-maintenance breakdowns? No work. Nice to see you are a 'proud small business owner'.
As far as sound deadeners go, any application of a product on the underside of your cab is essentially on TOP OF the painted surface- not on bare metal. I used a catalyzed product called UPOL on Penny's under-seat storage drawers. It is extremely durable, and will be what I use on Penny's cab (and tops of the running boards too). I'll also add some sound deadener (foil-faced bubble wrap perhaps) under the rubber mat.
Lakeroadster
Member
Gotta tell ya Flywheel... that's one beauty of a paint job on the frame... shop cat approved too! Tip of the hat to ya on posting the photo's for us. Nicely done all around.
The fella that did the bodywork on my Model A and Model T sprayed undercoating on both of them. It's held up great. The black adds a nice contrast with other painted components too.
Here's a photo from when I had to replace the battery this spring....
I'd say, knowing how you are, you need to coat it with something. Otherwise you'll be spending hours under your truck waxing all that paint.
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50 Chevy LS3
Member
Thanks, for the advice and comments, guys. The factory manual says they were to coat the area from the frame rails outward.
I still cannot decide what to use. I remember a guy at the Street Rod Nationals, trying to sell me a product called "Lizard Skin". I found the stuff for sale, and it takes a special gun to spray it. Expensive.
Mike, the UPOL, bedliner, is cool. Factory packed colors, or custom tintable. I will probably use something like that under the running boards. They are vulnerable to road rash.
Nate has a good point, also. My 2001, Chevy 2500, was never under coated with anything and has not rusted through, anywhere. Part of the reason for this may be the fact that I wash under the cab with a wash mitt, every time I wash the truck.
And, John,... Your probably right.
Steve.
I still cannot decide what to use. I remember a guy at the Street Rod Nationals, trying to sell me a product called "Lizard Skin". I found the stuff for sale, and it takes a special gun to spray it. Expensive.
Mike, the UPOL, bedliner, is cool. Factory packed colors, or custom tintable. I will probably use something like that under the running boards. They are vulnerable to road rash.
Nate has a good point, also. My 2001, Chevy 2500, was never under coated with anything and has not rusted through, anywhere. Part of the reason for this may be the fact that I wash under the cab with a wash mitt, every time I wash the truck.
And, John,... Your probably right.
It bugs me that I've got some thin paint spots on the underside of the rocker panels. That will be corrected.I'd say, knowing how you are, you need to coat it with something. Otherwise you'll be spending hours under your truck waxing all that paint.
Wife's cat...13 years old, more like a dog, than a cat. She likes to get between me and my work, usually.
Steve.
50 Chevy LS3
Member
A few late summer updates that I forgot to post. Very little accomplished, this past summer.
I did clean up the interior, behind and under the dash, and all, and painted it late in the season. I'm not satisfied with the dash, or the back of the cab, and will re-do it. Probably when I paint the entire cab exterior. The exterior cab body work should not take long. Just stopped for the winter.
Also, cleaned up the original heater unit. Thought I would paint it while I was at it. I would like to use a vintage air kit, but, who knows...
Finally, While it was blowing freezing rain, and snow, outside, today, I fastened the cab to the frame. Using our host's, cab mount kit, and stainless hardware, the cab is now permanently attached to the frame. Every thing seemed to fall in to place, and the cab appears to be exactly the right height from the frame with no shims.
I'm disappointed at not getting a good enough job on the interior. I was hoping to be spending time this winter installing steering column, fuse panel, preliminary wiring, computer install, and under cab wiring to the engine.
Anyway... this is all I have for now.
Steve.
I did clean up the interior, behind and under the dash, and all, and painted it late in the season. I'm not satisfied with the dash, or the back of the cab, and will re-do it. Probably when I paint the entire cab exterior. The exterior cab body work should not take long. Just stopped for the winter.
Also, cleaned up the original heater unit. Thought I would paint it while I was at it. I would like to use a vintage air kit, but, who knows...
Finally, While it was blowing freezing rain, and snow, outside, today, I fastened the cab to the frame. Using our host's, cab mount kit, and stainless hardware, the cab is now permanently attached to the frame. Every thing seemed to fall in to place, and the cab appears to be exactly the right height from the frame with no shims.
I'm disappointed at not getting a good enough job on the interior. I was hoping to be spending time this winter installing steering column, fuse panel, preliminary wiring, computer install, and under cab wiring to the engine.
Anyway... this is all I have for now.
Steve.
Zig
Member
Beautiful stuff, Steve!
Soon I will be repainting my dash, for the 3rd time.
(Rattle can)
I still want to cut out the radio plug and fill it with metal.
Evan gave me a game plan I will follow for that.
(Thanks again Evan!)
I never painted the underside of my truck. I figure it’s easier to see if anyplace is having issues and I can deal with it right off. Of course, my paint on the underside is just white rustoleum that I can brush on, but I’m probably the only one that will ever see it.
I’m glad I went with white for the way it bounces back light and makes things easier to see.
Good luck with what’s next and as always, thanks for the photo update!
Soon I will be repainting my dash, for the 3rd time.
(Rattle can)
I still want to cut out the radio plug and fill it with metal.
Evan gave me a game plan I will follow for that.
(Thanks again Evan!)
I never painted the underside of my truck. I figure it’s easier to see if anyplace is having issues and I can deal with it right off. Of course, my paint on the underside is just white rustoleum that I can brush on, but I’m probably the only one that will ever see it.
I’m glad I went with white for the way it bounces back light and makes things easier to see.
Good luck with what’s next and as always, thanks for the photo update!
Lakeroadster
Member
Hey Steve... what's up with the motors lined up along the wall behind the cab?