TH350 Torque Converter Bolts

[vwnate1]

O.K. , this should be an easy Q. : do I need washers here ? .

I bought the new Mr Gasket T.C. bolt kit , there are no washers and the T.C. has oval shaped holes in it so no washer makes me nervous .

the DPM had mis matched random hardware with no washers and everything was fine but I like to know .

Please advise .

TIA ,

 

[Lakeroadster]

B&M Torque Converter Installation Instructions

Nate,

I dug out the Installation Instructions for the B&M Torque Converter I used on my TH350 equipped Model A. The instructions state:

Step 21. Install three flexplate to converter nuts and bolts as required. If your flexplate has slotted holes rather than round holes, put a washer under the head of the bolt.​

 

[vwnate1]

Thank you john !

As I wrote that help request , I though " I know who'll have the straight skinny on this " .

Interestingly , IIRC the torque converter holes are the oval ones , the flex plate isn't .

Stock parts FWIW , I'll put a flat washer underneath the nuts then , they're on the T.S. side of things .

Maybe I'll be able to get the tranny mounted this weekend , I still need to drag it out , un bag it and do a thorough cleaning first .

Thanx again ! .

 

[coilover]

Nate,
The space is kind of tight so I use "flare" head bolts and nuts. You know, the ones that have a built on washer and can be found with "teeth" on the bolt head and/ or nut that is self locking. Very common on body panel bolts and radiator mount bolts.

 

[vwnate1]

Thank you !

As I'd wondered about using flare nuts .

I have these ' special ' TC nuts & bolts , I think I'll hunt for the flare nuts at least .

Give me a few dayze on this , O.K. ? .

Not feeling my oats right now .

 

[vwnate1]

More help !

I mated the TH350 tranny to the engine to - day and the torque converter spun freely like I remembered it should , the new bolt & nut kit came with self locking nuts and all the holes are round so no washers .

Here's my worry : it's been decades since I fiddled with Slush boxes and I seem to recall the T.C. should be easily moved up to touch the flex plate before you install the bolts & nuts . mine had a 1/8" ~ 1/4" gap that steadfastly refused to close until I tightened up each bolt & nut ~ even after two were snugged up the third one had the gap , it didn't close until I snugged it up , then I went 'round and final tightened each one .

I am concerned because back in the day , cracked flex plates were common so I wonder : did I miss something ? I don't want to have pre loaded it and caused it to crack soon after I get it back in the truck ..

Or is this normal and O.K. ? .

Please elucidate as I'm keen to connect the kick down cable and filler tube etc....

TIA ,

Oh yes ~ I did take some pix and will post them up in my 250 i6 engine thread when I get to a decent 'puter ~ this one is one I assembled out of junk a few years ago and it's really s l o w.........

Imagine that ~ a total Luddite like me , was able to cobble up a 'puter out of random discarded parts , it worked really well for the first few years too but I think is now simply too old & slow .