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vwnate1 said:
Lowering trucks , why ? if you don't like high old trucks , buy a Honda .
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It's just a preference, just like some folks liek Chevy, some GMC, ford and so on and so on. Why should I buy a Honda? Because I like old trucks that look a certain way and not the stock look? That's silly.
 
Raz76 said:
What rear are you gonna do that has 6 lug?
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I'm going to use a Colorado. There are a few other 6 lug options that are older, but if I'm going to put in a "new" rear, I'll take a low milage, hopefully disc brake back end.
 
Why

Raz76 said:
It's just a preference, just like some folks liek Chevy, some GMC, ford and so on and so on. Why should I buy a Honda? Because I like old trucks that look a certain way and not the stock look? That's silly.
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Ray ;

You are right of course , please pardon an Old Man's rant , I plead " O.P.P. " .
 
Praise The Lowered

" beacuse everything looks good lowered "

Unless of course , you like to actually drive .

Form follows function , not the other way 'round .

In matters of taste , everyone else is wrong :p .
 
Kind of like the paper airplane contest we had at work a few years ago. Three catagories:
1. Distance of flight
2. Time of flight
3. Marketing - looks good, but doesn't fly ;)
 
vwnate1 said:
" beacuse everything looks good lowered "

Unless of course , you like to actually drive .

Form follows function , not the other way 'round .

In matters of taste , everyone else is wrong :p .
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Ive been driving lowered vehicles since I was in high school and that's over 20 years. I don't have any issues driving a lowered car/truck. Ive had some that were an inch off the ground. If people like to restore these beauties, that fine, I don't. Im not building this truck to haul stuff with it. It will look like this when I'm done and it will be driven everywhere.

truck-2.jpg
 
Raz76 said:
Ive been driving lowered vehicles since I was in high school and that's over 20 years. I don't have any issues driving a lowered car/truck. Ive had some that were an inch off the ground. If people like to restore these beauties, that fine, I don't. Im not building this truck to haul stuff with it. It will look like this when I'm done and it will be driven everywhere.

truck-2.jpg
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I would think you must have had some issues. I can't imagine a truck or car an inch off the ground pulling into a parking lot with a steep enterance and not raking the whole underside on the ground. That's why I don't lower things. I just don't want to have to worry about every pot hole. But if you like low go low and have fun. Ive tossed the idea of air bags around only so I can adjust my ride height when I put a trailer on. To each their own.
 
Root2812 said:
I would think you must have had some issues. I can't imagine a truck or car an inch off the ground pulling into a parking lot with a steep enterance and not raking the whole underside on the ground. That's why I don't lower things. I just don't want to have to worry about every pot hole. But if you like low go low and have fun. Ive tossed the idea of air bags around only so I can adjust my ride height when I put a trailer on. To each their own.
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I rode 1 inch off the ground but yes, there are times when you do scrape, part of the game I guess. I did have bags and did raise it when going over speed bumps or steep driveways..etc.
 
Hey guys what is a good asking price if I was to sell my 228 with the 4 speed manual?
 
I did some digging tonight on the 72 Camaro rear axle I have and it turns out that I have the 10 bolt 8.5 posi trac. I hear that is the one to have if you want a camaro rear. I need to replace the differential slip yoke or whatever is called. Tried finding one but no luck, any help would be appreciated? Its for a 1972 Chevy Camaro 10 bolt 8.5 posi trac.

20120605_205549-1.jpg
 
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Raz76 said:
I need to replace the differential slip yoke or whatever is called. Tried finding one but no luck, any help would be appreciated? Its for a 1972 Chevy Camaro 10 bolt 8.5 posi trac.
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If the reason for replacement is to match it up to the U-joint on your driveshaft, you just need to find the right U-joint. There are U-joints specially designed to have different size sets of caps to adapt mismatched driveshafts and rear ends. A good driveline shop can help. A really good FLAPS could help. Here is an example:
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p11...combination_u_joint...neapco_maintenance.html
 
Bill Hanlon said:
If the reason for replacement is to match it up to the U-joint on your driveshaft, you just need to find the right U-joint. There are U-joints specially designed to have different size sets of caps to adapt mismatched driveshafts and rear ends. A good driveline shop can help. A really good FLAPS could help. Here is an example:
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p11...combination_u_joint...neapco_maintenance.html
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No I need to replace it because the threads are stripped where the u joint would go, you know the 4 bolts, with the two brackets. Two of them are stripped, plus I need to replace that seal anyway. Thanks because I did find what I needed on that link you provided. So thanks you it was the pinion yoke.
 
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I got around to bleeding the brake lines. The rears were no problem. I finally have brakes now. However nothing comes out the front. Could the lines be clogged in front?
 
They could be clogged, but they could also be collapsed. I just worked on an old fire truck where the front wheel cylinders and hoses both failed... I had to replace all of it.

Damon
 
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