• We have upgraded our forum software! See here for details.

New To The Forum

Kens 50 PU said:
Ray, $400 sounds very reasonable to me to blast the frame and powder coat!

As far as us deserting you on advice, there's a fine line between asking general questions and asking for specific info. A lot of us hesitate to answer something of a specific nature unless we have either done it or know of someone who has. I have never put a chevy front end on a GMC, so I hesitate to say it can be done. I do know that the sheet metal is different enough that it would require quite a bit of fab work to make it work.

Be patient on your build and with our apparent lack of responses! Oft times, it give you time to think it through and gives you a warm, fuzzy feeling to have figured something out.
Click to expand...

Thanks I appreciate it.
 
A core support, hood latch panel, hood, grille and fenders are required to make a chevy front end. The holes could be patched up where the grille mounts, but you may not have the holes in the grille opening for the chevy grille. Since you have them, I'd use the GMC parts, make the grille surround fade into the fenders at the bottom and put a stainless tube with curved ends (think handicapped bathroom rails) as a floating grille.

Look for the #s on the rearend, then do some snooping on camaro restoration sites. They were also in Novas, basically a family car with Camaro underpinnings.

Don't consider a dropped axle on these trucks, everyone I know that has tried one said they spent almost as much as on an IFS and it drives like crap. ALL of them hated it.

When building the frame, I highly reccommend boxing the whole thing. These things were flexy from the factory by design, boxing will make a huge difference. Also weld in the crossmembers you end up using, the rivets frequently have loosened up over time.
 
ol' chebby said:
A core support, hood latch panel, hood, grille and fenders are required to make a chevy front end. The holes could be patched up where the grille mounts, but you may not have the holes in the grille opening for the chevy grille. Since you have them, I'd use the GMC parts, make the grille surround fade into the fenders at the bottom and put a stainless tube with curved ends (think handicapped bathroom rails) as a floating grille.

Look for the #s on the rearend, then do some snooping on camaro restoration sites. They were also in Novas, basically a family car with Camaro underpinnings.

Don't consider a dropped axle on these trucks, everyone I know that has tried one said they spent almost as much as on an IFS and it drives like crap. ALL of them hated it.

When building the frame, I highly reccommend boxing the whole thing. These things were flexy from the factory by design, boxing will make a huge difference. Also weld in the crossmembers you end up using, the rivets frequently have loosened up over time.
Click to expand...


Found a number on the rear end and found out its from a 72 Camaro. Im gonna have the entire thing rebuilt before it goes on the frame. As fare as boxing the frame, I was thinking about cutting the 3/4 ton frame and using that to box in the frame. Im gonna do the Mustang II upfront and thinking of a 4 link in the rear. I also decided to keep the GMC since all I really see around here is Chevy. I want to be different and rock a GMC. I thought the chevy and GMC fenders where the same?. Thanks for the advice, that's what I was looking for, a little insight.
 
Last edited:
Raz76 said:
Is this site always this quiet? When I signed on everyone wanted to help, now I can cant even get any help. I will be selling the 3/4 ton bed, side skirts soon.
Click to expand...

:)

As far as help goes you have gotten a lot will get more but, Sometimes, well a lot of the time we have to go to work, or do honey-do things, play with our Grand Children, or have to work also on our own trucks. Sometimes we feel like not even turning on the computer and see what’s on line. Sometimes as Ken stated we haven't a clu as to what is being asked, or think maybe the asker should go into the stone tablets and read what is back there. And yes sometimes we all have absolutely nothing to say or add to the board. Me I’m glued the computer at work for nine hours and frankly some times do not turn the thing on for days at home. You’re doing a great job hang in there.

Charles
 
I was in Florida on Vacation this past week. On my way there I saw this beauty on the I-20 E, I believe I was in Mississippi or Alabama, dont recall. Just wanted to share.

20120609_124828-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok guys, I have few questions, The Chevy truck at the top of the page had a big brake kit upfront. Im assuming that he had IFS. Is the Mustang II IFS really from a mustang or is just called that? If it is from a Mustang, what year mustang and is that possibly how those guys achieved the big brake kit? Thanks.
 
Raz76 said:
Ok guys, I have few questions, The Chevy truck at the top of the page had a big brake kit upfront. Im assuming that he had IFS. Is the Mustang II IFS really from a mustang or is just called that? If it is from a Mustang, what year mustang and is that possibly how those guys achieved the big brake kit? Thanks.
Click to expand...

They aren't out of a mustang. They are designed using the geometry of the Mustang II's suspension because it was so good. There are many aftermarket kits made in many widths to fit different vehicles.
 
When I bought the Chevy 1/2 Ton frame, it came with the original front suspensions. If I was to keep that, what options do I have to lower the front on the stock 1/2 axle??
 
You can...

Raz76 said:
When I bought the Chevy 1/2 Ton frame, it came with the original front suspensions. If I was to keep that, what options do I have to lower the front on the stock 1/2 axle??
Click to expand...

...get dropped spindles or dropped springs. I got 2" dropped springs from Eaton. I didn't want much, just a tad. Someday I'll see what that looks like~ :(
 
Zig said:
...get dropped spindles or dropped springs. I got 2" dropped springs from Eaton. I didn't want much, just a tad. Someday I'll see what that looks like~ :(
Click to expand...

Do you have a link?
 
You bet!

Raz76 said:
Do you have a link?
Click to expand...

Just put in eatonsprings.com
It will take you to the site. I got the number and called. Talked with a rep to make sure he knew I had a 3/4 ton that I was putting a 1/2 ton axle under. (In case it made a difference...)

Good luck!
 
Raz76 said:
What do these mean on my engine block?
Click to expand...

The A251 is a date code that the part was cast. A = January, B = February, etc. The last digit = 1 = the year. Without knowing other details the 1 could mean 1941, 1951, 1961, etc. The one or two digits (two in your case) are the day of the month that the part was cast.

The 2136477 is the casting number (not part number) for a 1939-1952 GMC 228" or 1946-1952 270" cylinder head according to Rob English's web site here: http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/Photos/GMC_Numbers.htm
 
Simply Put ;

It means you have there a GMC LONG MOTOR so you're better than all us envious Chevrolet guys :rolleyes: .
 
Quick question, can the mustang II be bolted on or only welded?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top